Tools Needed:
* 10MM socket, extension, 3/8 drive.
* 10MM wrench. v 7MM socket, ¼ drive.
* Standard screwdriver set.
* Curved tip Screwdriver (looks like a screwdriver with a pick at the end).
* Needle nose pliers.
* Magnetic pick-up (heavily used).
* Inspection mirror.
* Compressed air or other means of cleaning valve covers such as a vacuum.
* Razor scraper to remove flaking paint, etc.
* Q-Tip with long sticks.
* Auxiliary lighting or well-lit garage.
* Sheets of plastic and 2 heavy towels to cover the exposed Valve housing (If you plan to leave the cams exposed for a while).
Materials list:
* Valve cover gaskets, $22 per set, 1 pack per side.
* Brake parts cleaner.
* RTV (Optional), Permatex ultra black to seal imperfections.
* Rags.
Procedure:
* Remove engine cover and cylinder covers.
* Remove ignition coils (note: Mark the coils with cylinder # from which it came).
* This is a good time to inspect/replace the ignition coil boots. If you had oil leak to the Spark plug cavity the boots may be oil saturated. You can snap the boots out from the coil and leave them on a paper towel and you’ll see that oil seeps out. Clean the inside with and out with a micro fiber cloth.
* Unbolt the fuel rail and remove the engine cover supports. Don’t pull the rail.
* Remove the air filter box cover, mass airflow sensor and intake tube.
* Remove sensor wires as needed.
* Loosen both electronics modules (the long black boxes). Start on the left.
* 2 nuts on top, pretty obvious.
* Sensor modules clip to fuel injectors. Stick the Curved tip Screwdriver in the backside of the clips and pull one side out and down, then the other side until the clip is completely off. The back ones on each side are very hard to get to. You MUST have a small round mirror, like a dentist mirror, and you MUST have a magnet on the end of an extension to pick up any pieces that fall. It also helps to have a small pen light flashlight. For the back ones, remove the metal bracket that holds on the plastic engine cover to get better access.
* Vacuum or blow out the spark plug cavity. Clean the edges of the valve cover.
* Unbolt and remove valve cover (Inspect fuel lines while they are accessible).
* Clean valve cover. v Clean gasket-seating surfaces and remove any gunk you got on the valves.
* Press in new gaskets. (Optional) Run a thin bead of rtv along gasket (I used Permatex Ultra Black).
* Replace valve covers. Make sure half moons at rear seat properly. Check and double check
* Valve cover nuts bottom out, so there is no real torque spec. About 14 ft/lb 168 in/lb should suffice. Just remember you are dealing with aluminum. Tighten in an alternating random pattern. I did mine from inside out and crisscross. Do not over tighten as the stud end may break and then it is another thing to repair (Speaking from experience).
* Replacement is the reverse of removal.
* Putting the clips back on is dead simple. You just slide the wire clips fully back onto the connectors before you reinstall. They are designed so that when pressed in, they spread out and then lock in, so all you have to do is push the unit back on and it all locks back into place.
* The inspection mirror is indispensable for checking clip and gasket placement.
Pictures:
Removing out the engine cover and cylinder covers
Taking out the air filter housing and AMF (air mass flow) sensor
Taking out Ignition Coil Connectors and Others
