I don't remember what your 3.64 is from but buy a set of new bolts for all 3 flanges if they are internal hex. I stripped one completely out when I was doing a wheel bearing. The CVjoint bulges just enough to make them difficult for a straight in shot.
Belt AND Suspenders 
You might want to Search the roadfly archives for pictures. There may be some older ones.
Oh and if you are changing the front flange there is a specific order of events that needs to be done to keep the ring and pinion in alignment.
I just did mine this weekend...
Things that can be a PITA...
Exhaust removal (I found it necessary to get an easier bite at the cherry)
The 2 uppermost bolts (Top of diff) It took a bit of doing with a 3/8 long handled breaker bar with a long reach socket on the bolt and a ratchet spanner on the nut. Then you have to drift these out ( Very tight in there)
Breaking the hold of the output flange bolts was achieved with a long shanked allen key and a 12" bit of bar.(not ideal but could not get my 1/2" drive with the allen socket in there straight enough for a good purchase) You do not want to round the inside of those bolts!!!
If you have to swap the back cover and output flanges, clean both of the diff casings thoroughly and use a smear of Hylomar on the casing surface.
On refitting I found it easier to bolt up the prop first lift in position then attach the lower big bolt off the front mounting arm then proceed to line up the two main top mounts one at a time..
needles to say WD40 all the threads before assembly. Makes it alot easier...
Hope it all goes well.....
Nut sizes!! 
Allen key is 8mm. Top mount bolts and nuts are 19mm, Front mount arm (I undid this at the casing not the mount...) are 22mm and the prop is 17mm I think...
My ratio changed from a 3.15 to a 3.91 LSD and yes in S3 it will now spin off the line
Not that I do that of course 
Anything else just shout 
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