ASC and ABS lights came on today whilst out driving.
I shall be having them diagnosed and in the past it has been wheel sensor and once the ABS Pump.
However, in the meantime what do you think about changing your driving style whilst these lights are on ..... if you are driving brake aggressive or cornering on door handles I can see that the ABS and ASC need to be working...but if driving normally then do the ABS and ASC really need to be working.
Comments appreciated.
Hayden
I would guess that brakes where made to work if the abs pack in just like a car with out abs wheels now have a chance to lock up.
You know, before the days of anti-lock braking systems and traction control we also had cars and most people managed to drive them safely. Be gentle with the throttle (especially in the wet), keep your distance and you should be okay. Naturally, if you are used to slam on the brakes and exit every corner full throttle you might be in for a surprise ;)...
My ABS lights came on last month after redoing my suspension .......also whilst out driving.
I had the car sent ( free) to BMW ...a favour as Im buying the new i3 and they diagnosed it as rear drivers side sensor, i think its a loose connection but have not gotten around to checking that yet...it drives like normal and i just dont go crazy speeds or hard braking in the wet.
As a matter of interest does anyone know how long to replace a rear wheel sensor and how difficult.
Thanks.
Hayden
I have just had ABS fault diagnosed as being CODE 7 - FRONT LEFT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR NOT PLAUSIBLE.
I would be interested in hearing from anyone who has experienced this fault code/message and what is best order to tackle the resolution.
(eg. in assumed order of cost - sensor wiring, reluctor ring, sensor, ABS control unit).
Many thanks.
Hayden
I would start by testing the sensor with a multimeter.
Lift the car, locate the wire that comes from the wheel hub (not the brake carrier) and follow it to its connector. Unplug the connector, check for corrosion on the contacts and if okay measure resistance between pin 1 and 2 of the end that goes to the sensor. I have not yet measured the E31 wheel speed sensors so I cannot give any reference values, but I found mention of a resistance between 0.5 and 2 ohm in an E36 forum. If you get a very high resistance or an open circuit, the sensor is bad. Next set the multimeter to measuring AC voltage (millivolt) and spin the wheel. The multimeter should pick up some voltage while the wheel is spinning. If you multimeter supports measuring frequency, you can verify whether the frequency goes up and down with the wheel speed. When in doubt, you may want to compare against another wheel speed sensor (front right for example).
If the sensor measures out okay in resistance but not in voltage/frequency it may be dirty. Remove it (just one screw), clean it, reinsert and measure the voltage/frequency again.
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