Maintenance

This section was built to introduce you the main informations needed to maintain your car.
You'll find more infos in the Repair-Manual & Part Numbers Sections
Check here for more ressources.

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Cars & Coffee Dimanche 8 Février.

Bonjour à tous

Le prochain Cars & Coffee se tiendra le Dimanche 8 Février matin (A partir de 9h00 et jusqu'à midi) aux abords de l'hippodrome de St Cloud.

Amicalement.

Antonin

24. Januar 2015

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II. Führung & Blick hinter die Kulissen im Zoo Dortmund

Aufgrund der großen positiven Resonanz und der Nachfrage nach einer Wiederholung gibt es hier nun die Termine für 2015

Beim letzten Mal waren wir 25 Leute - diese Anzahl würde ich für dieses Jahr auch festlegen. Ansonsten wird es in manchen Bereichen doch etwas schwierig vom Platz her.
ABER aus diesem Grund biete ich einfach mal zwei Termine an, damit so vielleicht doch jeder der Interesse hat auch daran teilnehmen kann

Termin 1: Samstag, 22.08.2015
Termin 2: Samstag, 12.09.2015


Nähere…

whiteshark

24. Januar 2015

Beitrag

Vacancy announcement - immediate - fulltime international

[INDENT] VACANCY ANNOUNCEMENT– IMMEDIATE


- PERMANENT, FULL-TIME POSITION

• Excellent compensation and lifetime benefits
• Profit-sharing
• Equity in real estate and property
• Tax –Exempt
• Company cars – Mercedes GLK, BMW850, Honda HRV


- DUTIES, 24/7 – PRIORITY IS SITUATION DEPENDENT

• Business partner
• Social escort
• Lover
• Best friend
• Confidant
• Side-kick
• Household oversight
• Accountant
• Financial adviser
• Budget enforcer
• Mother,…

Colonel Jack Kingston

17. Januar 2015

Beitrag

Vacancy announcement - immediate - fulltime international

[INDENT] VACANCY ANNOUNCEMENT– IMMEDIATE


- PERMANENT, FULL-TIME POSITION

• Excellent compensation and lifetime benefits
• Profit-sharing
• Equity in real estate and property
• Tax –Exempt
• Company cars – Mercedes GLK, BMW850, Honda HRV


- DUTIES, 24/7 – PRIORITY IS SITUATION DEPENDENT

• Business partner
• Social escort
• Lover
• Best friend
• Confidant
• Side-kick
• Household oversight
• Accountant
• Financial adviser
• Budget enforcer
• Mother,…

Colonel Jack Kingston

17. Januar 2015

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Prochainement sur le forum ma 850i à vendre !!

8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/29069/

850fref91

18. Januar 2015

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Atelier Mécanique Printemps 2015

Bonjour à tous

Nous organiserons un atelier mécanique le Samedi 25 Avril à partir de 10h, chez Tristan (Ballainvilliers 91) avec BBQ "Chalumeau" le midi.

Si vous souhaitez participer et réaliser les réparations précises, pourriez-vous l'indiquer dans ce post afin de nous organiser.

Merci.
Amicalement.

Antonin

18. Januar 2015

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Sortie Bourgogne 24/25 Mai

Bonjour

Apres notre sortie en Normandie mi Avril puis Valence début Mai, le Club devrait organiser une sortie dans la région de Beaune le Week-end du 24 et 25 Mai.

Le programme n'est pas encore fixé (mais il y a beaucoup de choses a voir dans le coin...), mais vous pouvez déjà vous inscrire sur ce Post.

Amicalement.

Antonin

18. Januar 2015

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réparation de siége

bonjours a tous
j'ai un petit soucis concernant le siège avant droit il ce met de travers lorsqu'on veut lever l'inclinaison
je sais que c'est un des petits problémes de la 8 et n'étant pas un bricoleur de génie j'aurai voulu savoir
s'y il existe une solution pour le réparé parce que j'imagine que chez Bmw sa doit taper assez fort
voila si quelqu'un parmi vous qui a été concerné par ce problème pouvait me donner quelques conseils utiles
je l'en remercie par avance .


a très bientôt


cordialement
…

dumé 2b

19. Januar 2015

Beitrag

Who owns this?

8er.org/forum/index.php?attachment/29103/

koenig dave

22. Januar 2015

8 Series = Maintenance Nightmare ?

Let's face it, the 850's are NOT maintenance nightmares, despite the bad press.
If you choose a well maintained used 8, and are diligent with your care of it, there are relatively few major problems that crop up.
As the mileage increases, certain items will need to be replaced but on the whole, you can expect a long healthy life from a nice 850.

Electronic Control Units

Important When Disconnecting Battery

Location: Two batteries In trunk, one each behind left and right wheel housings.
Disconnection will erase the fault memories of control units, so that fault memories must be read and, If applicable, faults printed first.
Always disconnect both ground leads to prevent short circuits !

Important After Reconnecting Battery

Re-initiate front power windows: shut doors, raise windows with switches, hold switches pressed at least 3 seconds.
Re-initiate power sun roof: close sun roof with switch, hold switch pressed at least 3 seconds.
Checking Initiation: automatic tipping in closing direction must work. If not, repeat the procedures.

Important With Connected Battery

Working on components, wire connections, etc. could cause faults in the fault memories of concerned control units.
If repairing instructions specify disconnection of the battery, this is absolutely necessary in the interest of safety.

Windshield Wipers (Wiper Motor)

Intermittent wiping and wipe speed 1 are switched off by an Interlock In case of disturbance.
This Interlock remains effective even after elimination of the fault.
Switch off the Ignition (terminals 15 and R) for 3 minutes to cancel Interlocking.

! IMPORTANT !

Disconnecting the car battery will erase fault memories of the control units.
Consequently always interrogate fault memories and, if applicable, print faults with the printer of a BMW SERVICE TESTER before disconnecting the car battery.
The ignition must always be switched off before control unit plugs are disconnected or connected.
Faults could be stored In the fault memories of control units with self diagnosis by removing and installing components, relays, fuses, etc..
Consequently always Interrogate fault memories after working on the electric system. Investigate and erase stored laults.

Owners Experiences

Here are some examples of owners posts
Of course You'll find more Owners Experiences on the Forum

Posted by Len Cacioppo

I am looking for others experiences here…
I have a 1994 CSi (have had it less than three weeks).
I finally received my owners manual which is supposed to cover the 840Ci, 850Ci and the 850CSi.
I am noticing some discrepancies between the owners manual and what the car actually does:

The instruction manual states that the theft alarm can only be activated/deactivated by the remote.
However, if I use my keys in the door, the alarm chirps on (one chirp) and off (two chirps) accordingly.

I can activate / deactivate the alarm with the key, but the alarm does not chirp...

In the section for remote control, it states under “convenience opening” that I can open the windows and sunroof by continuously holding the unlock button on the remote. No dice.

Kinda wierd thing, some owners are able to open/close windows & sunroof by continously holding the unlock/lock key on the remote, some are not able (inc. me, i'm ownly able to put all down, but not up).You can still do this directly with your key, turning left/right for a long time in the keyhole.

In the section for remote control, it states under “to lock” that I should press the lock button once to arm the alarm, tilt sensor and lock the doors. It then states that if I need to disable the tilt sensor, I should press the locking button again. My experience has been that pressing the button once locks the doors (only), pressing the button a second time sets the alarm (the alarm chirps), and pressing the button a third time causes the LED on the center console to light for an extended period of time and then start blinking again (I assume this is disarming the tilt sensor, but I have not come up with a good way to test this yet).

Remote has 3 buttons. Lock, double lock, and panic

When I get out of the car & attempt to use the remote, sometimes it works & sometimes it don’t (I have to then lock the car manually with the key).
Sounds like a low battery. This is going to sound silly, but, hold the remote against part of your body (such as forehead) and see if it increases the range.


My speedometer is off by quite a bit (varies with speed, but up to 8 mph) but within the rather wide tolerances allowed by BMW. Does anybody know of a way to fix this ?

My speedo is of by a linear amount, i.e., 3 mph at 30, 6 mph at 60, and 9mph at 90.
Maybe a speedo calibration shop can help. Try nhspeedometer.com

When I set the middle knob on the air vents (central ones above the MID) all the way to the red dot, the air coming out of the vent is not as hot as I would expect it to be, nor does it act the way my wife’s car does (1998 328ic).

Hotter air on red and colder air on blue.




Car: 850i
Year: ?
Author/Owner: Gregg

Problem:
This morning (for the first time) I noticed a perodic mechanical noise coming from the instrument pod area. The noise happens even when all electrical accessories are off (including the HVAC). It is there whether the car is in gear or not. It happens at about 4 second intervals. It can be heard inside the car when the radio is off at idle and can also be heard if you place your ear near the windsheild wiper resting area at the point where the drivers side windshield pillar meets the engine bay area. Anyone ever heard this noise? It is a sign of something bad? Note: All monitors report OK - meaning "Check" is OK and temperature is always unwaveringly dead center between H and C.


Solutions/Follow-ups:

Unknown:
My 95-740 does the same thing.....dealer told me it was some sort of drain plug under dash that was causing a perculating sound, or clicking. It has to do with the coolant system, and when it is fully pressurized it becomes louder. $20 parts but 2 hours of labor according to my dealer.



Car: 850i
Year: 91-92/93
Author/Owner: Phil S

Problem:
FYI: spark plugs

Solutions/Follow-ups:
While I was digging through my files to respond to another Board Member's question, I came across something that will be helpful to all you M-70 engine types out there. Changing spark plugs on our cars is a pain in the A**, so I decided to do some research a while back and do it just once (or not have to do it again for a VERY long time). The direct equivalent of the stock plug in platinum is NGK PZFR5F, stock number 7378. Now for the 840 and CSi crowd I would assume there would also be equivalents, but you'll have to call NGK (engineering) on that. You see all spark plugs share common characteristics such as thread size, reach, heat range, resistance etc. Although their (NGK's) cross reference did not list a replacement for the OEM BMW plug, by dissecting the OEM number, they were able to find a direct equivalent for me. When I changed them the engine actually seemed to run smoother, and the original plugs only had about 18k miles on them. Good luck!

Phil S

Service Interval Light System

Normal Conditions

Up to five green lights illuminate depending on vehicle use since new or last maintenance.
Reduction of illuminated green lights is a countdown for the next service due.




Oil Service Alert



All green lights are off and only the yellow light is illuminated along with the "Oil Service" sign, alerting you that oil service is necessary.


Inspection Service Alert



All green lights are off and only the yellow light is illuminated along with the "Inspection" sign, alerting you that this service is necessary.


Overdue Inspection Service Alert



The red light will illuminate along with the yellow one to serve as a warning that service is overdue; and in the interest of read safety and reliability, avoid driving your BMW.
Schedule an appointment immediately.


Re-set to Normal Condition



Once the required service is performed, the technician resets the service interval indicator to "normal" conditions to compute the next service / maintenance interval.


In 1996, BMW lowered maintenance guidelines due to their introduction of the scheduled maintenance service. This upgrade in service extends your BMW's longevity and performance.

The BMW service intervals consist of three main service groups.

Oil Service: Engine oil and filter change and additional preventative maintenance services.
Inspection I: Major vehicle maintenance as specified in your Service Booklet.
Inspection II: Additional major vehicle maintenance as specified in your Service Booklet.


Also, there are additional services that are required annually, which consist of: (These are excluded from the main service groups.)

Brake fluid flush
Coolant fluid flush
If your BMW is equipped with a timing belt (M20 engine), the timing belt should be replaced every 4 years or 50,000 miles which ever occurs first.
Oxygen sensor replacement

Here is a table you can use to determine when maintenance is required:

You should follow BMW's factory guidelines step by step to meet all BMW factory warranty requirements.

Always refer to your owner's manual for a detailed description of the services for your model year.

Engine Detailing

Engine detailing is nothing more than cleaning the exterior of the engine and the engine compartment, and applying dressing to protect and beautify the engine. It's very easy to do, and requires no more than 45 minutes to and hour every couple of months.

The first step in cleaning your engine is to remove the excess debris that gets trapped in your hood, grill, and vent openings. This is particularly true if you live in an area with four seasons. If you have compressed air available, this is the best way to remove old leaves, dead cats, and such. If you don't, a simple hand brush will suffice.

The next very important step is to prepare your engine for getting wet. You must cover all sensors, the distributor, spark plug openings and any electrical devices that have the potential for water accumulation (which could cause a short). Use plastic baggies to cover these items. Be sure to use tape or rubber bands to hold the plastic bags in place. You're only trying to prevent the majority of the water from getting in. It does not need to be watertight. The engine environment should already be waterproof. The baggies are just a precaution.

To loosen the grease accumulated on your engine and the engine compartment, start your engine and allow it to warm for a few minutes. The best temperature for cleaning your engine is warm to the touch, but not hot. If you're able to hold your hand to the engine without saying "ouch", then the temperature is just about right.

Now you're ready to apply your engine degreaser. I warn against the use of petroleum based cleaners in your engine compartment. While they quickly cut though grease and grime, they also deteriorate your rubber and vinyl components (not to mention what it does to our environment!). As an alternative, use a citrus-based cleaner.

When applying your engine degreaser, it's best to start from the bottom and work your way up. This prevents the degreaser from dripping on you as you clean the underside areas. One important thing to remember, the engine degreaser will remove the wax from the painted surfaces of your car. If your get degreaser over-spray on your fenders, plan on re-waxing.

When you have applied your engine degreaser, be sure to wash any excess cleaner from the exterior painted surfaces of the fenders, hood and grill (some people like to spray these areas with water first). Depending on the amount of accumulated grease, allow the degreaser to soak on the engine for three to five minutes. Do not allow the degreaser to dry on your engine. For light to mild levels of grease, you will not need to use a brush on the engine and other surfaces. For heavy soil, you can use a long handled brush (parts brush) and car wash solution to provide additional cleaning action prior to hosing off the degreaser.

When you are ready to remove the degreaser, hose down the entire engine compartment and surrounding surfaces with plenty of water. If you're using a high-pressure nozzle, be careful that you don't get the nozzle too close to the covered electrical connectors. Allow your engine to air-dry for several minutes before proceeding to use a towel to wipe down all accessible parts. Remove the plastic bags. The heat from the engine will assist in the drying process, however, do not allow the engine to air dry, as this will result in water spots. When dry, start your engine and allow it to run for a few minutes.

When everything is dry and your engine has cooled, you should apply a coating of rubber protectant to your hoses, wires, and plastic shields. To add a quick shine and protection to the painted surfaces in the engine compartment, use a high quality detailing spray wax. Just spray it on all surfaces, and wipe up the excess with a clean terrycloth.

Many car enthusiasts find that detailing their engine is the just the beginning to a long road of engine beautification. Other embellishments include polishing aluminum parts, painting key parts with bright colors, and adding chrome. Whatever you choose, make it your style and have fun.

Maintenance & Support for your BMW

Caring for your BMW enhances your enjoyment of it even more.
Here are resources to help answer your questions about everything from warranty information to the BMW Full Maintenance and Roadside Assistance programs included with all new BMWs.

Additionally, the extensive Vehicle Care section provides tips on cleaning and servicing your BMW, from the type of oil to use to how frequently it needs to be changed.

Roadside Assistance

Even the most reliable and durable automobile may someday need roadside attention. Should this happen, BMW Roadside Assistance is ready to help.

The BMW Roadside Assistance program reflects BMW's commitment to your complete satisfaction with the BMW ownership experience. It is available for U.S.-version BMWs that are covered by the New Vehicle Limited Warranty or Certified Pre-Owned BMW Protection Plan. Assistance extends to all 50 states, Canada and Puerto Rico, 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. This program provides towing, lock-out service and on-site assistance during the original New Vehicle Limited Warranty or Certified Pre-Owned BMW Protection Plan. Additionally, the program provides for towing your vehicle to the nearest authorized BMW center in the event of an accident; custom trip-routing services (maps and itineraries); and even provides trip interruption benefits for mechanical breakdowns covered under warranty when you are 100 or more miles from home.

BMW Roadside Assistance is provided through Cross Country Motor Club, Inc., Boston, MA 02155, except in Alaska, California, Hawaii, Oregon, Wisconsin and Wyoming, where services are provided by Cross Country Motor Club of California, Inc., Boston, MA 02155. Full details on BMW Roadside Assistance are provided in the Warranty Booklet, which all purchasers of new BMW automobiles and motorcycles receive from BMW of North America, Inc. after taking delivery. Owners of Certified Pre-Owned BMWs can find full details about BMW Roadside Assistance in their Consumer Information Statement, which was provided by their BMW center at the time of delivery. Vehicles not covered by the Certified Pre-Owned BMW Protection Plan can, for a nominal fee, purchase the BMW Service Card that extends this service after expiration of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty for as long as you wish.

The toll-free Roadside Assistance number is:

800-332-4BMW
(800-332-4269)

Full Maintenance

As part of BMW's complete commitment to your driving pleasure and safety, we include Full Maintenance at no additional cost on every new 2001 model year BMW purchased from any authorized BMW center in the U.S. or Puerto Rico. The BMW Full Maintenance program provides superior service by expert technicians at all authorized BMW centers in the U.S. or Puerto Rico for 3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever comes first.

Full Maintenance includes items that need replacement due to normal wear and tear, provided wear and tear exceeds BMW specifications. This includes items such as brake pads, brake rotors, and wiper blades that are not covered by the original New Vehicle Limited Warranty.

Any adjustments required due to normal operating conditions are also included. For exclusions and limitations, refer to the Service and Warranty Information booklet that came with your new BMW or see your authorized BMW center for details. A Full Maintenance upgrade to 4 years/50,000 miles is available.

BMW Warranties

BMW NA provides limited warranties for new 2001 U.S.-specification vehicles distributed by BMW NA or sold through the BMW NA European Delivery program against defects in materials or workmanship to the first retail purchaser and each subsequent purchaser.

The warranty period is for 4 years or 50,000 miles, whichever occurs first, and begins on the date of first retail sale, or the date the vehicle is placed in service as a demonstrator or company vehicle, whichever is earlier.

Please see your authorized BMW center for additional information on coverage and limitations.

BMW NA provides limited warranties for 2001 U.S.-specification vehicles distributed by BMW NA or sold through the BMW NA European Delivery program against defects in materials or workmanship which will result in rust perforation of the vehicle body for a period of 6 years, without mileage limitation, commencing on the date of first retail sale, or the date the vehicle is placed in service as a demonstrator or company vehicle, whichever is earlier.

Please see your authorized BMW center for additional information on coverage and limitations.


Vehicle Care

Proper care for your BMW will ensure optimum performance and appearance. Inside the Vehicle Care section you will find resources for keeping your interior and exterior in pristine condition, as well as extensive mechanical information. Featured are such innovations as the service indicator and BMW High Performance Synthetic Engine Oil. The synthetic formula allows for exceptional lubrication and a longer lifespan, while the service indicator shows when your BMW needs Full Maintenance.

As a BMW owner, you may want to perform some regular inspection yourself. The Checkpoint Locator - a virtual blueprint of the engine and luggage compartment - pinpoints and describes your vehicle's various components and features.

Additionally, you will find information on the full line of BMW care and service products.

Interior

Upholstery
BMW uses some of the highest quality fabrics in its interior. To minimize the effects of everyday use and preserve the immaculate appearance of your upholstery, frequent cleaning with a dust cloth or vacuum cleaner is encouraged. Occasional cleansing with lukewarm water and interior cleaners can also be performed. Brushing afterwards will restore the texture and appearance of your upholstery.

Leather
The natural leather in your BMW is among the highest grades, and is specially processed to uphold its character for years to come. Periodic use of BMW Leather Care will heighten its durability and appearance further. When combined with vacuuming and dusting, the BMW leather cleaner will help reduce the effects of normal use. For more thorough treatment, we suggest cleaning the leather with BMW Leather Care twice a year to remove dirt and grease which can come with everyday driving.

Trim
The clear instrument panel cover and interior plastic surfaces may be cleaned using water and plastic shampoo as necessary. Wooden fascia panels and components should be cleaned only with a damp cloth. Afterwards, dry thoroughly with a soft towel.

Rubber
The rubber components in your BMW should be cleaned with BMW Rubber/Vinyl Cleaner to help guard them from drying out. Afterwards, a BMW Rubber Treatment or silicone spray may be applied for added luster and protection.

Glass
You may use window cleaner to remove any film or haze on the interior glass and mirror surfaces; make sure to wipe off immediately. Refrain from using aggressive cleaners or compounds, as they may cause scratching.

Carpet
To diminish the effects of everyday use, you may clean the carpet and floor mats* in your BMW with an interior upholstery cleaner or a mild soap and water solution. Additionally, the floor mats may be removed for more thorough washing. After drying completely, light brushing will restore their texture and appearance.

* Floor mats come either standard or as an accessory, depending on vehicle model.

Exterior

Finish
The finish on your BMW represents the latest in anti-corrosion technologies: cataphoretic immersion priming, multilayer paint work, underbody PVC and wax coating. These features, when combined with regular washing and maintenance, will uphold the strength, safety and value of your vehicle.

Cleaning
You may wash your BMW either by hand or in an automatic car wash. Note that if you choose the automatic car wash, be sure to make safety provisions for any body add-ons you might have, such as spoilers or aerial antennas. You may wish to consult the automatic car wash operator for further concerns. Should spots or blemishes remain after washing, use rubbing alcohol or cleaning fluid to remove them. For stubborn spots, you may use a more aggressive cleaner like tar remover. Lamps and lenses should always be treated with a gentle glass cleaner. When washing by hand, use a mild soap and water solution and a nonabrasive brush or BMW Sheepskin Wash/Polish Mitt. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a lint-free towel or chamois.

Periodic washing will promote the strength and vibrancy of your BMW finish. In some circumstances, more frequent cleansing may be needed. In areas where atmospheric salt or pollution levels are higher, we encourage washing your vehicle weekly. In the winter months, increased washing may be needed to keep your BMW free of road salt and dirt.

Wheels
Periodic treatment of your light alloy wheels with BMW Wheel Cleaner protects them from dirt and brake dust and restores their natural shine.

Trim
Exterior trim surfaces may be cleaned with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed to prevent spots. Additionally, treat rubber components and tires with a silicone spray or rubber treatment for added protection.

Chrome
To uphold the mirror finish of your BMW's chrome, you may wash it with glass or window cleaner. For further buffing, use only a nonabrasive polish

Mechanical

Synthetic Oil
It's nice not to have to think about having the right engine oil for the weather or driving conditions. That's why we offer BMW High Performance Synthetic Engine Oil. It delivers superb lubrication in all BMWs under all conditions and weather extremes from -40° F to +120° F. Specifically, BMW High Performance Synthetic Engine Oil is a premium, 100% synthetic formula oil providing the following advantages over other oils:

- Greater high temperature protection
- Easier cold weather starts
- Enhanced wear and deposit protection
- Ideal for luxury vehicles and high performance vehicles
- Meets all requirements of ACEA A3/B3
- 5W-40 viscosity range


All new BMWs, except the M cars and the E36 models, come from the factory filled with BMW High Performance Synthetic Engine Oil. And for good reason. Their new engines are designed for the longer oil service intervals – up to 15,000 miles, depending on engine operating conditions – that require an oil meeting the superior performance standards of BMW High Performance Synthetic Engine Oil.

BMW High Performance Synthetic Engine Oil is available through BMW centers nationwide. Should you need to add oil and BMW High Performance Synthetic Engine Oil is unavailable, you may top up with small amounts of synthetic oil meeting the requirements of API Service SH or higher, such as Mobil 1 or Valvoline SynPower 5W-40.

Service Interval Indicator
Whenever the ignition is switched on, a series of colored lights on the service indicator panel appear momentarily, visually alerting you to the necessity of an engine oil service or inspection. The advanced technology of the BMW service indicator system allows the use of microcomputers to consider the influence of engine coolant temperature, high and low engine speeds, short and long trips, and the number of engine starts, in determining the optimum maintenance interval.

The BMW service indicator system has been developed to save you money on unnecessary oil changes as well as maximize vehicle safety, reliability and resale value, by minimizing the possibility of breakdowns resulting from improper maintenance.

No more guesswork. With the innovative BMW Service Indicator System, your vehicle precisely informs you when it needs routine servicing and maintenance.

Checkpoint Locator
The interactive Checkpoint Locator is currently not available. Please consult your BMW Owner's Manual for the information you seek, or contact your preferred BMW center.

FAQ's

What can I do to keep my BMW looking like new?
In your owner's manual you will find extensive information on Vehicle Care. Also, the Vehicle Care section of our Web site offers quick access to information on how to care for your BMW. You can go directly to Interior Vehicle Care or Exterior Vehicle Care.

How can I get a new owner's manual?
Contact your local BMW center or write to us at BMW of North America, Inc., P.O. Box 1227, Westwood, NJ 07675-1227, Attn: Customer Relations.

Where can I find out more information about BMW's warranties?
You can either access an overview of the warranty information on our Web site or you can call your local BMW center to speak to someone about the warranty.

What is BMW's Roadside Assistance program?
Roadside Assistance is BMW's customer support program for roadside car necessities. The program is offered to owners with the New Vehicle Limited Warranty or the Certified Pre-Owned BMW Protection Plan. It provides the following: towing; lock-out service; on-site assistance for flat tires, jump starts and emergency fuel delivery; custom trip-routing services (maps and itineraries); and even trip interruption benefits for mechanical breakdowns covered under warranty when you are 100 or more miles from home. Roadside Assistance can be reached at 800-332-4BMW (800-332-4269) 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.

Glass Cleaning

Cleaning your windows is one of the most tedious tasks you will face. After you have completed all other detailing tasks, put the perfect touch on your car by detailing you car’s glass.

Glass Cleaners

Just as in selecting car shampoo and wax, no two car enthusiasts can agree on the ultimate glass cleaner. Some people like ammonia cleaners, others swear by TSP, while the purists will use nothing but clear water. Whatever you use, the principles are the same: clean, dry and polish.

I highly discourage the use of ammonia-based glass cleaners on your car. While ammonia is a great glass cleaner for the home, ammonia is harmful to many car surfaces including vinyl, rubber, and leather. More importantly, the use of ammonia inside your car is harmful to your health. As a substitute to ammonia, I prefer citric acid, alcohol, or mechanical cleaners.

Glass cleaners in a spray bottle work fine. The only problem is over spray on the dash and upholstery. As it is difficult to direct the spray of glass cleaners, you will have the best luck spraying one side of a clean towel, wiping the glass, and then drying with the other side of the towel.

Many professional detailers use plain water for wiping and cleaning the windows and dry the glass with newspaper. Unlike paper towels and most cotton towels, newspaper does not leave behind lint and the ink acts as a glass polish. The only draw back to this method is the newsprint ink on your hands when you’re done. Be sure to wash your hands before touching your upholstery.

Steps for Cleaning Windows

Start your window cleaning with the driver’s door and front passenger door. If your door has a window frame, lower the window approximately one inch to allow access to the top part of the glass. This part should be cleaned and dried first. Spray with glass cleaner and buff dry. Now roll the window back up and clean the remainder of the window. Pay attention to the corner of the windows, as this is where you will get most smears and streaks. Don’t forget your driver’s side and passenger side mirrors.

While you’re sitting down in the passenger’s seat, clean the inside of the windshield. The inside of the windshield is easier to clean from the passenger’s side as your access is not obstructed by the steering wheel.

Take your time around the rearview mirror as it is only glued to your windshield. If you bump into the rearview mirror hard enough or at the right angle, you can break it loose from the glass.

The inside of the rear window is the most difficult to reach and should be done last. The best technique for cleaning your rear window is to use the backside of your hand to guide your towel down into the corners. Trying to use the palm of your hand will force you to be a contortionist and draw strange looks from your neighbors.

Cleaning Spotted Glass

Some parts of the country are burdened with extremely hard water. Hard water is water that contains excessive trace elements including calcium, iron, lime, and other minerals found in streams and rivers. These trace elements remain on your glass when water from sprinklers or washing air dries. These hard water spots attach themselves to glass like white on rice. If left on your glass for very long, hard water spots will not wash off with shampooing or egular glass cleaners.

In my experience, there are only two ways to remove hard water spots. The first is to use distilled white vinegar. If your water spots are mild, you can dilute the vinegar 2:1 with water. Heavy spots may require pure vinegar. Either way, the vinegar will not harm you or your car. Vinegar is a very mild acid, which dissolves the alkaline-based mineral water deposits with ease.

If hard water spots are allowed to remain for more than a week or two, they may etch the glass. So, even though you have removed the minerals causing the water spots, the spots remain as damage to your glass. In these cases, it is necessary to polish the glass. Until recently, there were a number of glass polishes on the market. The two best products were Eagle One Glass Polish & RainX Glass Polish. However, both of these products have been discontinued due to little demand.

In my experience, any light (low abrasive) car polish that does not contain paint feeding oils will work as a good glass polish. Eagle One Scratch Remover is a good example of a polish that does not contain oils and works well on glass, as does P21S Multi-Surface Finish Restorer. There are two ways to use these polishes. The most gentle is to use an old t-shirt to polish the spotted area and buff to full luster. The second is to use the polish with #00 or finer synthetic steel wool to remove the spots then buff with an old t-shirt.

If your glass is heavily pitted, or mildly scratched, you can also use polish to restore the finish. In this case, it may be necessary to use a buffer in order to achieve the desired results. In some cases, the glass may be so deeply pitted, etched, or scratched that the inevitable must occur, you must replace the glass.

Cleaning Window Tint Film

Window tint film is often applied to the inside windows to shade passengers or provide privacy. Window tint film is a thin sheet of Mylar plastic. Mylar easily scratches and will be destroyed by ammonia. To clean tinted windows, use mild cleaners and water only.

Tint film that has been scratched can be polished with cleaners designed for the vinyl windows often found on convertible tops. The product I recommend for polishing and regular maintenance of window tint film is Plexus. Plexus comes in spray and is safe for use on plastic, plexiglass, and window tint film. In addition to polishing your window tint film, Plexus works great on your tail light and headlight covers.

Windshield Wipers

Windshield wipers are necessary to clean your windshield and rear window when it rains, snows, becomes bug ridden, or dirty from long road trips. Wipers perform best when the rubber is in good shape and the glass is fairly clean. You should make it a habit to clean your front and rear wiper blades at the same time you clean your glass. After cleaning your glass, use a damp cloth to wipe the rubber blades, removing bug residue, wax, and other dirt build-up.

Although rubber dressing helps preserve, protect, and beautify the rubber and vinyl parts on your car, you should not use dressings on your wiper blades. Rubber dressing on your blades will cause streaking and smearing, impairing your vision. The best overall maintenance of your blades is keeping them clean.

No amount of cleaning will keep your blades in perfect condition. Wiper blades wear with each use. Most wiper blades will last about one year. When your blades become worn, dried, or faulty replace them with a new set. Most manufacturers recommend replacing wiper blades at the beginning of fall.

Final Touches

If your car is a year or more old, a close inspection may reveal dirt build-up in the corners of your windshield and rear window around the trim. To remove this caked on gunk, use an old toothbrush or detailing brush with your spray cleaner. Before cleaning, lay a towel at the base of the window to catch drips.

Spray your brush with window cleaner and shake off the excess cleaner. Use your brush to scrub along the trim, breaking loose the dirt. Use the tip of a cotton swab to reach underneath trim and remove trapped dirt. If your brush won’t remove the build-up of dirt use a sharp single edged razor blade to gently remove the dirt from your glass. Take care not to push your razor blade too far under rubber seals as this may cause leaks. Stay clear of defroster strips on rear windows that are not embedded in the glass. Cutting the defroster strips will render them useless. Follow up after the razor blade with your brush and glass cleaner.

Microfiber Cloth

When used damp on glass, the cleaning cloth, which we call the Miracle Towel, cleans windows by pulling dirt and oils into the cloth. The ultra fine structure of the Miracle Towel leaves exceptionally small water beads, which dry without spotting. For perfect glass, follow the damp Miracle Towel with a dry Miracle Towel. Your Miracle Towel can be used damp or dry. When used dry, it works like a chamois.

To date, I have not found a cleaning product that can match the ease of use or result of the Miracle Towel. If you regularly maintain your windows, the Miracle Towel is the best overall substitution to chemicals and terry cloth drying towels. Unlike terry cloth or other cotton towels, the Miracle Towel will not leave lint or cause streaking. The Miracle Towel will not, however, remove sap, tar or hard water spots from your windows. These problems will still require the use of chemicals.

Other Tips & Hints

For long road trips and unexpected problems, keep a cleaning cloth in your glovebox. I have found the simplest solution to window cleaning away from home, comes from P21S. P21S makes a product called Windshield Wipes, which are a sealed pouch containing a cleaning cloth and a drying cloth. The cleaning cloth has a strong cleaning solution that cuts through most glass problems.

Also, from P21S, I have found that P21S Windshield Wash Booster improves my wiper’s ability to clean my windshield without streaking. The power of P21S Booster easily cuts through bugs and road grime.

Product Recommendations:

1. BMW Glass Cleaner

2. Eimann Fabrik Clear Vision

3. Porsche Glass Cleaner

4. Stoner Invisible Glass

5. Plexus (window tint film)

6. P21S Windshild Wipes

7. P21S Windshield Wash Booster

Interior Maintenance

Start by thoroughly vacuuming your car's interior, before you do anything else. That way, you won't be blowing dirt all over your freshly cleaned car and you won't run the risk of dragging electric cords through puddles of water. Also, dust is easier to vacuum from doorjambs when it's not all wet and muddy.

When vacuuming, a crevice tool will help in those hard-to-reach places, while a carpet brush loosens dirt and lifts matted carpet-pile. Use a softer round brush on the seats.

Regular vacuuming and dusting of your car’s interior is the best way to keep it looking good. However, surface cleaning alone is not enough. Two to three times a year you will need to detail the upholstery to keep it looking its best.

Detailing Fabric Upholstery

Fabric is the most difficult upholstery to detail. Unlike vinyl and leather, fabric upholstery easily soils and stains. You should expect to spend 2-3 hours detailing a sedan with fabric upholstery, a little less time for a truck or two-seater.

There are two basic methods and product choices to clean fabric:

Spray-On/Wipe Off Cleaner (foaming or non-foaming) – These cleaners penetrate and lift dirt and stains to the surface where you can wipe them away.

Shampoo – A sudsy soap solution that requires agitation with a brush or sponge and rinsing.

For quick spot cleaning, I recommend the spray on/wipe off type of cleaner. These cleaners are strong, and get deep into the soil or stain to thoroughly clean. However, for a complete cleaning, I prefer good old soap and water cleaning. Before using any product on your car’s fabric upholstery, test for color fading (colorfast) by cleaning a small, inconspicuous area. Do not use the product if it adversely changes your fabric’s color or texture.

If there is any "detailer’s secret" to shampooing car upholstery its in the rinsing. If you don’t rinse, the dirt and soap remain in the upholstery. Rinse water must be removed with a vacuum. Use a shop wet-dry vacuum, a coin-op car wash vacuum, or a carpet wet-dry machine rented from your local grocery store. Make sure you have the vacuum before you get started. Follow these easy steps:

Spray spots and heavily soiled areas with a good spot remover. I recommend Eimman Fabrik Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner or Eagle One Zap.

Mix two ounces of car shampoo with warm water in a 3-gallon bucket. P21S Bodywork Shampoo, Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo and Eimann Fabrik Power Wash+ all work pretty well.

Use an upholstery scrub brush and a sponge in a circular motion to agitate the upholstery. Use the suds from the top of your bucket, and apply as little water as possible.

Wipe away the suds with a sponge or a damp terrycloth towel.

Empty your bucket of soapy water and refill with warm water.

Rinse your upholstery with clean water by wiping with a damp terrycloth towel. Rinse the soap from our towel often and wring it out. Use as little water as necessary to rinse thoroughly.

Vacuum your upholstery to extract the remaining rinse water.

Use a hair dryer to complete the drying process. Be careful not to scorch the fabric by holding the dryer too close.

Allow the fabric to dry overnight before using. If possible, keep your windows open slightly to allow the moisture to escape.

To keep your fabric upholstery looking factory fresh for many years, consider using a fabric protectant. My favorite is 303 Fabric Guard blocks the sun’s damaging rays and repels water, oil, grease and dirt. Use a fabric guard only on new or just-cleaned upholstery. Your upholstery must be dry. Simply spray it on (two light coats is better than one) and let it dry.

Detailing Vinyl Upholstery

Vinyl is the most durable upholstery, but it is not the easiest to keep clean. Unlike cloth or leather, the surface of vinyl generates static, which attracts dust. As a result, vinyl can quickly become grimy. The good news is, vinyl is the easiest upholstery to clean.

Do not use regular household soap and water on your vinyl upholstery. Detergent will permanently remove the sheen from the vinyl. Choose a cleaner made specifically for vinyl. My favorites are Pinnacle Vinyl & Leather Cleaner and Eimman Fabric Spot Remover. Another excellent choice is XENIT.

Follow these easy steps for the perfect vinyl interior:

Spray vinyl with your favorite cleaner.

Work the cleaning solution into seams, edges and seat backs using an upholstery scrub brush. If necessary, use an old toothbrush to get into the small crevices.

Rinse the vinyl thoroughly with a bucket of clean water and a terrycloth towel.

Dry the upholstery with a clean, dry terrycloth towel.

Finally, apply your favorite vinyl dressing to restore the sheen.

Note: All cleaning methods should be followed by a thorough rinse with water using a sponge or wet cloth. Obviously abrasives should never be used on vinyl. Strong petroleum distillates are a universal "no no" for both vinyl and rubber and waxes should never be used on vinyl. Virtually all vinyl manufacturers agree that no type of silicone oil should be used on vinyl.

A quick word about vinyl dressings: they’re not all the same. Choose a dressing that gives you the look you want (flat to shiny). Pinnacle and 303 create a matte to satin finish. Zymol is satin to shiny. Lexol Vinylex is shiny.

Another thing to consider is protection from the sun. 303 Protectant contains the strongest UV sunscreen, Lexol Vinylex the second strongest and Pinnacle Vinyl & Rubber Protectant the weakest sunscreen.

Application Tips:

In cold weather climates, applying a vinyl & rubber dressing to trunk/door weather stripping helps prevent doors and trunks from freezing shut.

Don't spray dressings directly on the dash where they can splatter on the windshield. Apply dressings to an applicator pad and then wipe the dash.

Spray a light coating of 303 or Vinylex into undercoated wheel wells to keep them looking factory fresh.

Detailing Leather Upholstery

There are two cleaning related factors that can cause your leather to prematurely wear. The first is dirt and the second is oil from your skin. The oil from your skin is actually the most damaging to your leather. This is particularly true if you wear shorts or a tank top, and have recently applied lotion or a sunscreen to your skin. Take this into consideration when determining your cleaning schedule.

Unlike fabric or vinyl upholstery, leather should be cleaned one section at a time. This means, when you have applied your cleaner or conditioner to one area, fully wipe down that area then proceed to the next, and so on. Work on an area no larger than 2-3 square feet at a time.

There are many different leather cleaners available. Based on my testing, I only recommend two products: Pinnacle Leather & Vinyl Cleaner and Lexol Leather Cleaner. They both work equally well, but the Pinnacle smells much better and does not leave as much residue to wipe off as the Lexol.

If you have a dark colored leather interior, I recommend cleaning twice a year. Light colored leather will need cleaning more often, even as much as every three months, depending on how easily the dirt is revealed. In between cleaning your leather (every other time you wash your car), use a clean damp towel to wipe down the surface completely. This removes the dust and light dirt so it won’t have a chance to work into your leather.

Follow these steps to clean your leather:

Apply the leather cleaner of your choice one section at a time and work the solution into a nice lather with a sponge. If your leather is heavily soiled, use an upholstery (interior detailing) brush.

When finished scrubbing, be sure to remove all soap from the surface with a damp towel.

Rinse and wipe several times, then dry the leather with a fresh, dry terrycloth towel.

By the way, water will not hurt your leather. Most leather is actually made (tanned) in water.

After your car’s leather has dried, apply the leather conditioner of your choice. Choose a leather protectant that gives you the look you want (flat to shiny). Pinnacle and Connolly Hide Food create a satin finish. Lexol is shiny.

Just like cleaning, apply leather conditioner one section at a time using a damp foam wax applicator. Work the conditioner in thoroughly. Allow the conditioner to sit (soak in) for 15 to 20 minutes, then buff off the excess with a dry terry cloth towel. It’s important to buff off the excess. If you allow the excess to stay, your seats will be slippery. After a few minutes of soak time, your leather has taken in all the moisture it can. The remainder will simply evaporate, leaving that nasty film on the inside of your windows.

Keep Your 8 in Shape

A few hours of preventive maintenance can save you hundreds - or even thousands - of dollars a year. Regular care of both the minor mechanical items and the general appearance of your car will make it run better and last longer. Preventive maintenance not only will make driving more pleasurable, but will reduce the chances of an accident or major break-down.
Keeping Good Records
Keeping accurate records of your car's maintenance and repair history isn't difficult if done on a regular basis, and it will make it easier to determine when the various systems of your car need attention. That can mean many extra dollars when you sell or trade in your car.

All you need is a small book to keep a diary of your car's repair history. You can buy one at most auto parts stores, or you can make your own, following the example. You also need a large envelope or file folder in which to keep repair and maintenance work orders, along with copies of warranties for tires, batteries, and other auto parts.

Recording repair costs and keeping receipts will pay dividends in many ways. If your car is used for business purposes, the records and receipts can be used for substantiating tax deductions. Besides knowing precisely when regular maintenance should be performed, good records can alert you to watch for special sales on items coming up for replacement, such as tires, oil, or shock absorbers. And properly kept records give you a true picture of what it actually costs to own and operate a car. Such information is essential to proper household budgeting.

Owner's manuals contain lists of suggested maintenance routines and their recommended frequencies. This is an excellent way to start developing your car's fitness program, although you may need to increase the frequency of some tasks depending on your driving habits and locale. If you live in a particularly hot and dusty climate, for example, you may need to increase the frequency of oil changes. The recommended frequency of most maintenance items is usually given in miles and time, outlined in your owner's manual. It is best to preform the indicated maintenance at the earlier of the two.

Once you establish a routine, it isn't that difficult to take care of your car properly. If you haven't kept any records and aren't sure when something was last serviced, now is the time to start fresh. Invest the time and money it takes to get your car in tiptop shape and plan to keep it that way by performing maintenance at scheduled intervals. It's never too late to begin good car maintenance habits.

Getting Started
Once you've decided to start a regular maintenance program, the first thing to do is a thorough visual inspection of your car. Go over the interior, the exterior, and the engine, making notes of any items needing special attention. Simple tasks can be preformed at this time - such as checking and tightening all nuts, bolts, and screws.

For the most part, you won't need any special tools to accomplish this. Several "Phillips-head" screwdrivers and a set of open-end wrenches from 3/8 to 3/4 inch sizes usually will do the trick. (If you have a foreign car, you may need metric wrenches ranging from 10 to 17mm.) This will cover most fasteners you'll encounter. Tool kits available at many hardware and auto-parts stores include these basic tools in a handy carrying case. I strongly recommend you buy one.

It is surprising how many different rattles and creaks disappear after going over your car thoroughly. A little oil or other lubricant applied to moving parts - hood, trunk, and door hinges, for example - can work wonders. Several easy-to-use aerosol products, including "silicone sprays," are widely available. One such useful product, WD-40, has many applications.
Some of the things worth checking:

Interior door panels and the dashboard. They often are the sources of rattles that can drive you crazy. The problem may be simply a loose screw.
Under the hood, check the battery, air cleaner, and hoses. Other things - such as the distributor cap or carburetor - may be loose too, but you must be careful - some screws in the engine are adjusting screws. If you turn the wrong one, you could put something out of adjustment.
If your car is more than a year old, it is a good idea to have your engine compartment cleaned. After removing dirt and grime, it is much easier to locate and identify oil and other fluid leaks in the various engine systems. Many service stations will clean an engine for less than $10, or you can do it yourself at a car wash with a couple of cans of aerosol engine cleaner and some hot water under pressure.
(WARNING: A process called "steam cleaning" gets the dirt out of the engine compartment. It does an excellent job of cleaning, but it sometimes can bring problems to the surface. Loose or deteriorating hoses may break or become unattached; poor electrical connections may "short out"; some sealed areas may begin to leak.)

Looking Good, Inside and Out
In racing, we always say, "The best-looking cars are the best-running cars."

I can't overemphasize the importance of keeping your car's interior and exterior looking clean and sharp. Not only will you enjoy driving more, but your efforts will pay enormous dividends when you sell or trade in your car.

Interior. The seats and carpet require frequent attention. Items such as the dashboard, door panels, and ceiling usually stay cleaner and require less maintenance.

Seats are easily kept clean by regular vacuuming and applying the proper cleaning product for the material. Fabric can be cleaned with any good upholstery cleaner. If your car is new, "scotch guarding" the fabric can make it more stain-resistant and much easier to clean in the future.

I don't recommend covers to protect the seats. They detract from the beauty and employment of the car. Moreover, some fabrics are adversely affected by vinyl covers, which trap moisture and don't allow the upholstery to breathe.

Vinyl probably is the most practical seat material to maintain. It is easy to clean with any number of good spray products available in auto, drug, and grocery stores. After cleaning, an application of vinyl protective spray will keep it soft and looking new.

For leather, saddle soap works best. It keeps leather pliable and helps inhibit the natural cracks that appear when leather starts to dry out.

Be careful: Many vinyl and leather protective sprays contain silicone and other ingredients harmful to window tint film. When applying these products, avoid getting them on your film tinted windows. In such cases, it's wiser to spray the solution on a clean rag and then apply it to the upholstery.

Carpets require regular and frequent vacuuming. Small, battery-operated vacuums simply won't do the job. A good home vacuum with the proper attachment probably will suffice. The more powerful coin-operated machine at the car washes and service stations are better.

Carpet stains should be removed as soon as possible using any of the many products available. Your favorite rug shampoo will work just fine for general cleaning. If you have floor mats, they should be removed regularly and the underlying carpet vacuumed thoroughly.

Door panels are made of a variety of materials. Vinyl and fabric can be treated much the same as seat material. Some door panels have plastic sections that may be cleaned with mild detergent and water; your vinyl cleaner generally will do the job if dirt is not embedded in the material. After cleaning the plastic, a treatment with your vinyl protective spray is in order.

Headliners - the interior ceiling - seldom accumulate dirt and need very little attention. If yours is vinyl, an occasional cleaning and coating with your vinyl protective product is all that is needed.

Dashboards should be cleaned regularly with your vinyl cleaner or a mixture of mild detergent and water. A liberal coating of vinyl protective spray on a frequent basis helps prevent cracking caused by sunlight. This same treatment usually will keep any chrome or brass trim on the dash looking good. If ashtrays are used, they should they should be cleaned regularly to minimize odors. If the gauges on the dashboard are covered with glass,use a glass cleaner; if plastic, use an all-purpose cleaner.

Exterior. The most obvious sign of a well-maintained car is a bright and shiny exterior. A sharp exterior is very important when you decide to sell your car because it is the first thing the potential buyer sees. No exterior will last forever, of course, but here are some measures that will substantially lengthen the lifespan of your car's finish.

Washing your car regularly is a good place to start. But exactly how you wash depends partly on the quality of your local water. If you have "hard" water, rings and film may be left on your car's surface. Because it is difficult to change the water supply, the next best thing is to dry the car before the water can evaporate.

Don't use detergents or common coarse soaps. Harsh detergents cause your car's paint to lose its residual oils. Use a non detergent soap made especially for waxed surfaces or a liquid soap used for dish washing by hand.

Use a nozzle with as much pressure as possible to dislodge dirt. Be sure to rinse the car thoroughly. Start washing your car from the top and work down. Abrasive dirt tends to flow down and away from parts you have already washed, resulting in less scratching of the surface. The best washing tool is a sponge, some type of car-wash mitten, or a soft towel. Which ever you use, keep it clean by rinsing frequently or replace it whenever it becomes dirty.

Try not to wash your car in direct sunlight, when the surface is extremely hot. Remove tree sap or bird droppings immediately, because they have a tendency to eat through the paint.

The wheels and tires should be washed last. Use a bristle brush designed for this purpose, or a house hold brush that isn't too abrasive. Spray water up inside the wheel wells and under the rocker panels. Salt and debris can get trapped there and cause rust.

When drying the car, use fluffy terry towels. A chamois will work well, but it also can drag dirt particles along with the water. Start drying at the top and work your way down.

Waxing is the next step, but you need to be careful about which of the many different products you choose.

Cleaners are made to remove the dirt from the top surface of the paint. Cleaners have no protective qualities; they clean the surface but don't protect it. Rubbing compounds or polishing compounds are used to remove stubborn stains and dirt as well as minor imperfections, scratches, and badly weathered paint. Polishes usually do not contain abrasives or waxes; they merely shine the paint by adding oils to it. Waxes are used as a protective coating for the paint and polish. The use of liquid, paste, or hard wax is a personal choice, but if protection is all you seek, use whichever is easiest to apply.

Oxidation - exposure to air - is paint's biggest enemy. You can't stop oxidation completely, but conscientious use of polishes and waxes definitely will slow it down. Follow directions carefully and don't assume that if a little is good, a lot is better. When you apply a second or third layer of wax, you remove the wax you just applied. Remember that all products aren't suitable for all finishes. Read the label before buying. Many products come with their own applicators. A clean piece of Turkish toweling or terry cloth will work well.
Here are some more tips on waxing your car:

For best results, work in the shade of your garage.
Clean or turn the applicator often to avoid contaminating one part of the car with debris from a previously waxed section.
Always apply the way to the pad, not to the car.
Apply sparingly. Follow the directions as to the proper motion - circular or back and-forth. If the directions don't specify, use a back-and-forth motion; a circular motion can leave swirl marks.
Allow the wax to dry thoroughly before buffing. If you buff too soon, your car will end up with a dull finish.
Use plenty of clean towels to remove the dried wax. Shake out and turn the towels often.
How often you wax your car depends on climate and driving conditions. The harsher the conditions and climate, the more often you should wax. In most areas, twice-a-year waxing is sufficient.

How do you know your car needs waxing? Simple: If water beads readily on your car's surface, the way is still doing it's job. If not, you're overdue for another coat.

Showcar Detail

Detailers that prepare show cars will often layer a carnauba wax on top of a synthetic wax. The synthetic wax acts as a gloss layer while the carnauba wax adds depth and liquidity. One combination that works very well is an initial coating of Klasse All-In-One followed by one or more coats of Pinnacle Paste Glaz or Souveran wax.

For the concourse shine, start with a coat of cream wax. Most cream waxes are designed to go on easily and buff off with little effort. If you have an exceptional glaze, such as Pinnacle Souveran or Zymol Concourse, apply two lite coats of your high quality wax.

Apply and buff the first coat of wax, as normal, and allow it to cure for 12-48 hours. Follow with a second coat. Note that the first coat of wax must have time to cure. If the wax does not cure (harden), the second coat will not improve your car’s appearance or protection. Properly applied, you will see a noticeable improvement in depth, richness of color, and gloss with the second coat of wax. Additional layers are far more subjective to most people, although many concourse winners use many layers to produce the desired depth.

What do you do if, after all this work, you still have streaks and areas that don’t want to polish up? There are several tricks, but the easiest is to park your car in the sun after waxing for 10-15 minutes. Let it get warm, but not hot, then take it back inside the garage. Next, using a good spray bottle and distilled water, schpritz a small area and buff with a clean terrycloth towel. The warmth of the car softens the wax, allowing it to polish to a clear, high gloss. If you don't have distilled water, use a detailing spray, such as Meguiar's Final Inspection.

Washing

Washing your car is simple. All you do is add water and it is done. Add a warm sunny afternoon and the task almost becomes pleasant. Keeping your car clean may not be quite as simple as just adding water, but it is something that most drivers are capable of, makes your car look better, and gives you a chance to inspect your car carefully for signs of wear or damage.
The first rule for washing your car is to never wash it in direct sunlight. The heat from the sun will dry the water and soap on the surface as you are washing the car, leaving chemical spots on it. The sunlight also reflects through the water droplets in the same way the sun reflects through a magnifying glass. This can cause more "spots" to be burned into the surface paint. The warm sun may feel good to those doing the washing, but isn't good for your car. Wash your car on a cloudy day, under the shade of a tree, or inside a building to prevent these blemishes from appearing on your car.

The second rule of washing your car is use lots of water! You want to float the dirt off your vehicle. If you wipe the paint surfaces when only a little water is on them you will probably be grinding dirt particles right into the paint. This causes scratches and swirl marks to show up on your clean car.

Wet the complete car down thoroughly from top to bottom before touching the surface. Then mix a mild liquid soap and water solution in a container and apply it liberally to the car with a soft cloth. There are commercial wash solutions available from automotive retailers, but liquid dish soaps work also **EDIT (www.bmwexperience.com) If you have a newer car with a clear coat finish, DO NOT use liquid dish soap**. The dish soap solution may need to be rinsed off the car longer.

Wash small areas' one at a time. For example, start with the roof. Wipe it completely with the soap solution and then rinse it with clean water. Do not let the area become dry. Then move on to the hood and trunk panels, being sure to rinse them completely. Finally, you are ready to do the sides.

When rinsing the car, be sure to rinse completely under any moldings, or chrome. If the rinse water appears dirty, keep rinsing. Dust and dirt tend to collect under moldings and in the recesses of the car body. If this dirt is left there, it will hold moisture and it then becomes a place for rust to start forming.

While you are washing your car, you may notice black lumps stuck on the lower portions. This is road tar used to repair roads. Use a tar remover to soften these spots and wipe them carefully. Often dirt or sand is trapped in the tar, so if you use any force to remove the tar it scratches the paint. Several applications of tar remover may be necessary on big spots to remove them without using force. After using a tar remover, wash the portion of the car again with soapy water to remove any oil film on the car body.

Now you are ready to dry the car. Some let them "drip dry". This is the easiest but it will leave spots on your car from the minerals in the water. One trick I have used when I am unable to physically dry something (such as wire wheels) is to add a little dishwasher liquid "anti-spot" agent to a pail of rinse water. The water drains off without leaving any spots. I have used this on painted surfaces as well, but there could be a possibility of a reaction between the chemical and some paints. If you want to try this trick, try it on a part of the car usually not seen such as the inside of a hood or the bottom of a door first. If there is any reaction, do not continue!

Wiping the car body dry is the most common method of preventing water spotting. Most people use a chamois to dry their car. A chamois is made of soft leather from a sheep or deer and works well to dry a car. The leather quickly soaks up the water as it is wiped over the surface and then it can be wrung out to wipe again. A chamois must be cared for if it is to last. After wiping the car, wash the chamois in clean water, and then hang it to dry before storing it.

Instead of a chamois, soft cloth can be used to wipe the car. Cloth diapers or bath towels work well and don't leave any lint behind. After being wrung out, a cloth does not work as well as a chamois so you will need several on hand. The advantage of using cloth is they can be thrown in the washing machine and drier and be ready for the next car wash.

There is only one more step to washing our car. Before putting all your equipment away and admiring your work, you should take a pointed object like a small screwdriver or knitting needle and open the drain holes on the bottom of each car door. There are usually a few holes along the bottom of each door to let the water out that leaks down the outside of the windows and inside the doors. These holes can become plugged, especially on older vehicles, trapping water inside the door. This is an invitation for rust!

After washing it, you may want to wax your shiny clean car. Use only a non-abrasive wax and do only a small area at a time. Abrasive type waxes or cleaners are designed to remove the oxidization from the paint surface and are actually removing paint when they do this. Never wax over freshly painted surfaces! The paint can take up to six months to cure completely. Wax would prevent the paint from curing properly. Many new car paint surfaces do not need waxing to keep their shine. Frequent washings are all that is necessary.

Waxing

Once you are comfortable with the condition of the paint, it is time to think of a coating of wax. Wax functions as a paint preserver by helping it to retain certain oils which reduce oxidation. It also serves to protect from environmental hazards such as bird droppings, tree sap, smog and the sun's ultraviolet rays. And it gives paint the depth, gloss and richness that can make all those detailing hours worthwhile.

Wax is available in three forms: liquid, paste and spray. As a general rule, liquid wax goes on easier, but does not last as long as the paste products. Which one you use is your choice. Our only recommendation is that you choose one with a high Carnauba content. Unfortunately, there really isn't any way to determine Carnauba content other than to say that if it is prominent on the label, it's a safe bet. Avoid spray waxes as they are too thin to be of any real use.
We recommend two medium applications of wax rather than a single heavy one. You can use the round applicators that come with some waxes or are available separately. A damp rectangular kitchen sponge makes a good applicator, as its shape seems to be able to handle the detail areas of a car. An extra application is a good idea on the nose and hood, where the wind will quickly wear off the wax.

What Goes On, Must Come Off
When the wax is dry, remove the residue using only a very soft cloth. As soon as the cloth movement feel has resistance, find a fresh surface. Using an orbital buffer will speed the job up nicely. A straight (non orbital) buffer would be even faster, but if you are not careful you risk "burning" the paint. For that reason, we recommend our fellow non-professionals stick with an orbital buffer. Always keep an eye on the surface of the cloth you are using, since any dirt or foreign objects can cause scratches.
The hard part is removing the wax residue from the various creases and edges. The edges of the doors, trunk, hood and so on are easy; just open them and go over the area with a soft cloth. Fixed items, such as side marker lights, badges, radio antennas, windshield washer nozzles, etc. are more difficult.




Some detailers use a soft bristled toothbrush. This approach works, although we urge caution as scratches can occur if you are not careful. A toothpick can be effective sometimes. It might even be worthwhile to remove some items (badges, side marker lamps, for example) before applying the wax.




We recommend that you wax your car once every three months - more if the car is exposed to harsh conditions. When it comes to deciding if it's time for a new coat of wax, the time-honored water beading test can't be topped. While you are doing the wash pre-rinse, notice how the water drops bead up. If the drops are more than one-half inch diameter, or if the water tends to form "sheets", then a new wax job is a good idea.

Wheel


Proper Tire and Wheel Cleaning

To properly clean your tires and wheels, you will need a 3-5 gallon bucket, a soft tire and wheel scrub brush, a sponge or wash cloth, a water hose and nozzle, car shampoo, and a spray wheel cleaner. Here are some step-by-step tips to make cleaning easier:

1. Clean one wheel at a time.

2. Clean your tires and wheels first before washing the rest of the car. This prevents splattering cleaners, dirt and brake dust on already cleaned panels. Your car is also less prone to getting water spots from drying while you wash your wheels.

3. Do not clean your wheels if they are still hot from driving. Let them cool, or thoroughly hose them down.

4. Mix a bucket of soapy water with your favorite car shampoo. Mix double the recommended strength. I recommend Eimann Fabrik Power Wash+ for tires and wheels. It’s much stronger than most automotive shampoos, but it will not strip wax.

5. Thoroughly rinse the tire and wheel with water using a hose and spray nozzle. If exposed, rinse the brake caliper to flush away loose brake dust. Finally, rinse up into the wheel well to wash away road grunge, road kill, mud and other debris.

6. If your tires and wheels have a heavy coating of brake dust or road grime, spray them down with your wheel cleaner. Allow the cleaner to soak for 30 seconds (minimum) to 3 minutes (maximum). I recommend P21S, P21S Gel, and Eimann Fabrik Hi-Intensity for most applications.

7. Use your tire and wheel scrub brush and your soapy water to agitate the tire and wheel surface. Use plenty of soapy water. The soap acts as a lubricant to gently lift dirt and grit away from your wheels. Follow-up with your sponge or washcloth to wash the remaining dirt from the tire and wheel. If your wheels have large open areas, use the sponge to get behind these areas. Make sure the tires are scrubbed. Many people put layer upon layer of dressings on their tires but never clean them. The result is a brown or yellow discoloration.

8. Use your wheel brush and soapy water to scrub the accessible areas of the wheel well, too. This small detail keeps your car looking fresh and new.

9. Thoroughly rinse the tire, wheel and wheel well. Use plenty of water. You need to ensure that all traces of the wheel cleaner are gone.

After washing your car, remember to dry your tires and wheels using a 100% cotton terrycloth towel.

Caution: I do not recommend using tire cleaners containing bleach. Bleaches are used in many tire cleaners to brighten white wall tires, but they can turn tires a dull gray and will stain your alloy wheels.

Proper Tire & Wheel Conditioning

After you clean your tires and wheels, you need to protect them. Tire dressings accent the appearance of your tires and protect against cracking and fading. Likewise, waxing your wheels protects their finish from brake dust, and makes them easier to keep clean.

Your wheels should be waxed, at a minimum, each time you wax your car. You can significantly reduce your wheel cleaning and waxing efforts by coating your wheels with a high quality acrylic. I recommend Klasse All-In-One for this purpose, as it is heat resistant and will not yellow. Klasse All-In-One also has the added benefit of being both a cleaner and a protectant. Another excellent wheel protection product is Plexus. Plexus works well on wheels with many small openings, as these wheels are difficult to wax.

To apply tire dressing:

1. Use a small foam sponge, foam wax applicator, or Eagle One Tire Swipes to apply tire dressing (foam provides even distribution and wastes far less product than a cloth). To avoid getting tire dressing on your car, apply the dressing to the foam applicator, not directly to the tire. I recommend Pinnacle Vinyl & Rubber Protectant, 303 Protectant and Lexol Vinylex. These products are all water-based dressings containing strong UV inhibitors.

2. Allow dressings to penetrate into the tire before wiping off the excess dressing. Five to ten minutes is okay, but 30 minutes is even better.

3. If your wheel wells have a black plastic liner, wipe the wheel well liner with dressing, too. This simple detailing step makes a big difference.

4. If you like your tires to be shiny, do a final wipe down with your foam applicator. If you prefer a satin finish, buff the tires down with a terrycloth towel.

Concours Tires & Wheels

Concours winning show cars are clean enough to pass a white glove test. This includes the tires and wheels (front and back) and the wheel wells. Removing your wheels to detail them might seem a little fanatical, but it has several benefits, including:

1. Inspecting your tires for proper wear and damage.

2. Inspecting your brakes.

3. Inspecting your suspension.

To properly concourse detail your tires and wheels, you will need a jack, jack stands, bucket, tire and wheel brush, sponge, water hose and nozzle, car shampoo, spray wheel cleaner, tar remover (mineral spirits), wax, tire dressing, foam wax applicators and plenty of terrycloth towels. If you are not familiar with the procedure for jacking your car and removing the wheels, see your car owner’s guide.

Here is the step-by-step procedure to clean your tires, wheels and wheel wells:

1. Remove and clean one wheel at a time. Slightly loosen the lug nuts on one wheel and jack one end of your car off the ground (preferably the end with the wheel you want to remove). Before fully loosening the lug nuts and removing the wheel, place a jack stand under an appropriate point of the chassis or suspension.

2. Mix a bucket of soapy water with your favorite car shampoo. Mix double the recommended strength.

3. Clean the backside of the wheel first. Spray the backside of the wheel and tire with a generous coat of wheel cleaner. Allow it to soak for 3-5 minutes.

4. Using your tire and wheel brush, scrub the backside of the tire and wheel with soapy water. The resulting grunge will be very gritty, so use plenty of soapy water and keep your brush rinsed.

5. Rinse thoroughly and repeat. If your wheels have small crevices, you may need to use an old toothbrush. A soft parts cleaning brush also works well on the backside of the wheel.

6. When the wheel’s backside is as clean as you can get it, repeat on the front. Make sure you rinse both sides really well when you’re done.

7. While the wheel is dripping dry, spray the wheel well, brake caliper and suspension components with cleaner. Allow it to soak for five minutes. Take this time to dry your wheel with a cotton terrycloth towel.

8. Use the remaining soapy water and your wheel brush to scrub the wheel well, brake caliper and suspension parts. You don’t need to make it perfect unless you really do plan to show your car. Make it clean enough to inspect. Let these parts air dry.

Once everything is clean, you can turn your attention to protection and beautification:

1. Spray the underside of your wheel well and any plastic parts with a generous coat of silicon tire and rubber dressing. Allow it to soak in. If you live in an area where it snows, this will prevent the snow from accumulating in your wheel wells. It also makes future cleanings much easier. I recommend Eimann Fabrik Black Opal Gloss Dressing for this purpose. Wipe off the excess dressing with a towel, and buff to a nice luster. Be careful not to get over spray on the body of your car.

2. Wipe your tire down with a generous coat of tire dressing and allow it to penetrate. While the dressing penetrates, inspect the wheel for tar spots. Quite often, large tar spots will accumulate on the backside of the wheel. Use tar remover and a rag to remove the tar. If your wheel has a lot of spots, wipe down the whole wheel.

3. Inspect your wheel for surface scratches. If you find any, now is the time to buff them out with a light polishing compound. If you don’t have a polishing compound, use a little dab of toothpaste.

4. Wax your wheel front and back. An acrylic sealant will last the longest and provide the best protection, but good old paste wax works fine. Buff to a high luster.

5. Finally, buff down the tire and apply a second coat of tire dressing. When satisfied with the finish, put the wheel back on the car.

635 vs 850 maintenance costs

Question :

What are the typical maintenance and repair costs on an 850. Would you expect a '91 850 or 88 635 to cost more in repairs.
I've heard that 91 850's are difficult to maintain...is this true?

"apurvemehra@hotmail.com"


Answers :

I suppose the answer is

in what condition is the car you are thinking of buying / bought ?
Allways get an inspection done on any prospective purchase.

There is no doubt that is more expensice to repair /maint this type of vehicle that a 6 series but it is also dependant on how many miles you will be doing , the conditions in which the care will be driven and how the car is driven.

I have owned my 850i 92 for just over a yesr and the parts have been failry cheep but I have had no major problems mainly due to the great build quality.

"john@johnster.co.uk"

I can't imagine the 8 maintenance costs could be ever be cheaper than my 635. My 6 has 182K and has only needed an alternator, starter, muffler, cat, and a radiator over the past 7 years. On the 8 I've already taken care of a new clutch, upper & lower oil pan gasket replacement, and intake manifold gaskets which equate to about the total value of the 635

"ajw13@cornell.edu"

Before I had the '91 850i, I had an '83 633csi. I would say that between an 850 and a 635 of similar condition, the 850 would be about twice the cost to maintain. The 850 is closer to an M6 in maintenance costs. One thing to consider is that the engine has twice as many of everything, but that's not the main cost. For example, the cost of replacing intake manifold gaskets is staggering as compared to the 6er. The waterpump, radiator, and thermostat cost twice as much as in the 6er even if you do the work yourself. There are two iginition coils instead of one. Two catylitic converters. Two oxygen sensors. Around 7.5 quarts of oil for the change. Pentosin vs Dexron for the steering. Brake pads cost more. It's not for people on a budget, but it can be done relatively economically if you can do much of the work yourself, and if you can wait the extra time for discount mail order parts. One thing the 8er and 6er do have in common is that trim and accessory parts are often difficult to locate.

"pmorrissey@g-and-o.com"

840 vs. 850 maintenance costs

Question :

Is there a big difference in the maintenance costs and frequency of repairs between the 840 and 850, or are they both a fortune to fix?

"karlkarlb@yahoo.com"

Answer :

If you do the repairs yourself and have a non-dealer source for repairs then most repairs are reasonable. If you do not do repairs and have to go to the dealer or independant shops for parts/repairs then yes, it is an expensive car to maintain relative to its current market price. Yes, you can buy a decent one for low 20's now, but you are still buying a car that retailed for about 80 to 100K depending upon model year, and parts are priced accordingly. The dealerships hate to work on the 8's too due to the fact that they engine bay is tight and they don't get enough of them to become REALLY familiar with repairs which means more labor hours on repair. Budget 2-4K per year for repairs depending upon your mileage.


"justaguyinokc@altavista.com"
'92 Laguna Green 850i 6spd

Maintenance CheckList by Owners

Most warranties only "fully" cover internally lubricated parts (engine/transmission), etc. If you have one that is a true bumper to bumpter definitely check:

Intake manifold gasket for leaks
DK Throttle motors for function/wear
Exhaust (mufflers rust starting at drain pinhole)
Engine and transmission mounts
Driveshaft/drivetrain for any vibrations
air conditioner compressor (mine went out and that repair alone made the whole insurance policy worthwhile)
heater function (all vents blowing correctly with NO coolant smell)


Those are the major areas I can think of that usually start deteriorating @ the 50-65K range.

Jim S.
'92 Laguna Green 850i 6spd 154K


8-Series Maintenance in General

The 8-Series is solidly engineered and built, yet as with anything mechanical does suffer from a few minor flaws. The two primary faults are the drive-by-wire "DK throttle bodies" and intake manifold gaskets, which both usually require replacement at about 70k miles or more. Early automatic transmissions can be fault-prone, but no more than any other automatic receiving 326 pounds of torque. Otherwise, there are small issues such as the on-board computer display pixels becoming inactive, twisted seats from slipping control mechanism cables, coin tray breakage, and torn window seal gaskets. In the end, these are easily dealt with.


The engine, suspension, and drive train are very robust. The engine should easily last to 200k miles without rebuild. One caution being the 840's Nickasil engine block that BMW has been replacing under warranty due to sulfur-related cylinder bore wear. The 850's V12 uses a different Alusil block that does not share the same wear problems.


Owners and potential purchasers will likely encounter "tales" of reliability issues. The 8-Series has at times suffer from a unique reputation among some mechanics as overly complex and often problematic. While true that the car is complex, it is extremely well engineered and built. The issue seems to be that few mechanics have experience with them due to their limited production numbers. It is not uncommon to find mechanics chasing electrical faults by replacing wires and/or control units simply because a battery is low in charge and generating random fault codes. Needless to say, the mechanic blames the car not his own ineptitude.


Another 8-Series maintenance issue is that past owners often failed to properly maintain the cars due to expense or otherwise. IF maintained accordingly (regular Inspection I and II services) by a competent 8-Series mechanic they are not troublesome. The IF, however is, as represented, a large assumption. While the cars began life as $80-$100k automobiles, the neglect of multiple owners can leave a snakes nest of repairs for the unknowing buyer. As the final recipients of bargain-basement priced 8's will attest, car's with neglected maintenance can quickly become money pits. By whom and how an 8-Series has been maintained is essential to its future reliability. Purchasing one without all service book stamps in place and complete maintenance receipts confirming repairs may seem like a bargain, but resultant repair costs can be staggering.


As with most BMW models and other cars that last 200-300k miles or more, the 8-Series also has a "mid-life crisis" of sorts that when combined with a previous owner's neglect can drain any wallet. At about 75-80k miles, major wear items can and often do expire as a group . Brake rotors, DK throttle bodies, mufflers, wheel bearings, shock absorbers, control arms, and batteries, hoses, etc. all require replacement at around this time. If performed by your local BMW dealer, this series of replacements will quickly approach or exceed $6,000 for parts and labor. A qualified independent shop can perform the work for almost half the cost. What should be stressed is that when purchasing an example with over 75k miles, look for records of parts replacemetn or factor them into the future ownership costs. A properly maintained car with all of these items replaced by a competent shop is obviously going to have a higher asking price.


Comparably, variations in models with the exception of the engines used in the 840 versus 850 are few. Variations between model years are for the most part cosmetic in naturere, such as softer leather, chrome handles, etc.. The V12 850 is of course the more expensive car to maintain due to its dual system nature for gas, ignition, etc., and the V8 840 is the least intensive. Later 850 Ci's starting in 1993 did include revisions for the DK throttle failure issues, a more robust automatic transmission (5 speed), and an increase in displacement from 5.0 liters to 5.4 liters. However, if interested in a 6 speed, only the 1991-1993 850i is available (although rare) or the CSi. The only other downside of the 850Ci versions is that to date they cannot be modified with chips as the 850i's can, thus the chipped 850i's 340hp vs. the unchipped 850Ci's stock 326hp.


Most long-term owners seem to agree that a well maintained 8-Series will cost $2,500-$3.000 per year to maintain using a competent shop charging about $75 per hour. A dealer's parts costs and hourly rates are likely to almost double this figure. Exceptions are those with the time, knowledge, tools and skill to tackle repairs and maintenance themselves. While possible, the engine compartment is very tight making simple parts changes difficult at times. While items like DK throttle bodies are easily dealt with, intake manifold gaskets are 10 hour projects with many many small parts and assembly nuances. It can be done, but the challenge is best left to professionals.


Parts costs can be as expensive or even more than those for BMW Motorsport cars. For example, the simple rubber weather stripping that ensures proper window seals at the upper edges list for $225 each (part nos. 51 71 1 970 502, left; and 501 right). These tend to tear where the top front edge of the rear windows meet the gasket first. Needless to say, at almost $600 including tax and installation they are solidly in Ferrari-like cost territory. It was after all, an $80k car.

In the end, diligent maintenance is a requisite for 8-Series owners. If performed regularly by qualified technicians the cars are very reliable yet do require a significant budget for regular upkeep. Operating costs and issues are comparable to Motorsport edition BMWs such as the M5. For a V12/V8 car of similar performance, the e31 is an exceptional bargain with outstanding reliability.

Greg K
Grabbed from www.BMWE31.com



Finally for Recalls, bulletins and Updates for the E31 here is a Quick Checklist
All very true From Rudy at Rudy.ClubE31.net

check sunroof alignment
check hood alignment
check horn lights - do they flash
check horns - both working and secure
check ribbon lights - any fogging
check to see if any chipping on rear of hood by wiper arms
check plastic grills by ribbon lights - they come loose frequently
check temp wheel lights - working?
check all radio backlights - working?
Check all switch backlights - working?
check A/M switch - backlight working?
check pixels in OBC
check all fluids
check service lights - number left green?
check center stop light - working? - fogged?
check seat travel - no tilt or binding
check all windows work - auto down and up working
check toolkit - all there?
check first aid kit - all there?
check glovebox flashlight - there? - working?
check cruise control
check front dam - tight?
touch up paint available?
check rear window defroster - confirm it's working
all black screw plugs for fan shroud there?
is phone manual avail??
check both window seals - tend to go at front/rear joint
check for spare fuses
have DK motors been done?
check steering - if loose, may require lower control arms/bushings
check both batteries - if one soft then both will need to be replaced
check jack point rubbers - there and whole?
intake manifold gaskets ok?

Or going to the Extreme, Check these Safety Recalls gathered by Rudy

TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title

320296 AUG 96 Recall Campaign 96V-110
000194 JAN 00 Service Action/Recall Campaign Codes Index General Recalls
TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title
000194 JAN 00 Service Action/Recall Campaign Codes Index

Service Bulletins
TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title
040899 JUN99 New SAC Clamping Fixture
070296 JUN 99 Updated DIS Software CD 18.0
001098 MAY 99 Electrical Trouble Shooting Manuals Available on CD-ROM
040699 MAR 99 Electrical Connector Kit 4 Supplement
230399 MAR 99 Exchange Manual Transmission - Oil Specification

040199 MAR 99 Windshield Replacement Tools
230199 FEB 99 Manual Transmission Difficult to Shift - Diagnostic Tips
160498 JAN 99 Fuel Level Sensor Gives False Resistance Reading
320199 JAN 99 Ignition Lock Spins Freely
240198 JAN 99 Transmission Fluid Level Checking Procedure & App. Chart
240398 DEC 98 Technical Liaison for GM Transmission
510998 OCT 98 New Glass Adhesive Kit
170198 OCT 98 Radiator Cap Recall - No. 98V-178
080398 AUG 98 MODIC III/CD 14 - Questions and Answers
080198 JUL 98 MODIC III
070296 JUL 98 Updated DIS Software CD 14.0
340298 APR 98 ABS/ASC Warning Lights On During Dynamometer Test
651896 MAR 98 CD Changer Malfunctions - Skips on Rough Road Surface
040298 MAR 98 Connectors for Electrical Repair Kit IV
070198 MAR 98 DIS Schematic Information
1000197 JAN 98 New Service information Construction Group - 100
080596 JAN 98 Updated MODIC Diagnostic Software - D12.0
080396 JAN 98 Updated MODIC Software - ZCS Coding
841397 DEC 97 Replacement Parts - Motorola Mobile Phones
041597 NOV 97 New BMW Special Tools.
041697 NOV 97 New BMW Special Tools..
240497 NOV 97 Transmission does not Upshift when Cold
080396 OCT 97 Updated MODIC Software C11.0 ZCS Coding
080496 OCT 97 Updated MODIC Software P11.0 Programming
001396 AUG 97 Microfiche Update - All Models

640993 AUG 97 Replacement of Receiver Dryers: R12 / R-134a
100396 AUG 97 TIS Software Update - 07/97
100396 JUN 97 Update - TIS Software
000897 MAY 97 Label for Service Action or Recall Campaign (#201-220)
010397 APR 97 Modified Vehicles
0109954318 APR 97 Reimbursement for Diagnostic Work
070296 FEB 97 Updated DIS Software CD 9.0
080396 FEB 97 Updated MODIC Software C9.0 ZCS Coding
080496 FEB 97 Updated MODIC Software P9.0 Programming
100396 FEB 97 Updated TIS Software - 12/96
610788 DEC 96 Battery Maintenance
0101943986 DEC 96 Paint and Paint Repairs - Warranty Coverage
004089 NOV 96 Microfiche - Service Information Bulletins - Sept 30, 96
002096 NOV 96 Service Round Table - November 96
410396 NOV 96 Wind Noise Diagnosis
010396 OCT 96 Service and Warranty Information Statement - 1997
010696 OCT 96 Certified Pre-Owned BMW Vehicle Program
002196 OCT 96 Label for Service Action or Recall Campaign (#181-#200)
070296 OCT 96 Updated DIS Software CD 8.0
080496 OCT 96 Updated MODIC Software P8.0 Programming
010290 SEP 96 Defect Code Microfiche - Revision
100396 SEP 96 TIS Software Updated
720696 SEP 96 Transportation of Infants and Children in all BMW's
651396 AUG 96 Cellular Phone Antenna - Installation
070396 AUG 96 DIS Maintenance and Operation

240496 AUG 96 EPROM Replacement/Application
120996 AUG 96 EPROM Replacement/Application Chart
042796 AUG 96 New Wheel Weight Tools
042196 JUL 96 New Torque Indicator Tool
990296 JUL 96 Paint Materials Approved
640195 JUL 96 Retrofitting R-12 Air Conditioning with R-134a
720596 JUL 96 SRS Control Module (ZAE II) Coding
650796 MAY 96 Emergency Power Siren
620296 MAY 96 Maximum Permissible Speedometer Error
120195 MAY 96 Seal on 2 and 3 Pin Plug Connectors
070296 MAY 96 Updated DIS Software
650296 APR 96 6-Disc Alpine CD Changer Troubleshooting Guide
640695 APR 96 A/C System Noise Questionnaire
060196 APR 96 BMW Added Value Premium - Service Record Reporting
041896 APR 96 Bonded Windshield Adhesive Cutter
041196 APR 96 New Environmentally Safe Parts Washer
720496 APR 96 Safety Belt Buckles - Broken Printed Circuit Board
720396 APR 96 Safety Belts with Child Restraint Feature
080396 APR 96 Undefined MODIC Software
041696 MAR 96 New Clutch Disc Wear Gauge
310193 MAR 96 Replacement of Shock Absorbers
100396 MAR 96 TIS Software Update
070296 FEB 96 DIS Software Update
000996 FEB 96 Flat Rate Manual Addition
320196 FEB 96 Power Steering Diagnosis

510396 FEB 96 Sound Insulation Droops Down
360296 FEB 96 Wheel Configuration
0026903100 JAN 96 Update to Microfiche
040196 JAN 96 Tools - New Special Tools
1108944139 DEC 95 Engine Oil Viscosity Recommendation
2405954294 NOV 95 EGS/AGS Control Module EPROM Replacement
1203933824 NOV 95 Starter Motor Failures - Binding/Sticking Ignition
6201954172 SEP 95 Odometer/Coding Plug/Instrument Cluster Replacement
1111903149 AUG 95 Engine Oil Capacities - All Current
1203851085 AUG 95 Spark Plug Application - Chart
IDC1017957 JUN 95 Updated TIS Software
0408954211 MAY 95 New Special Tools - May 95
0104954209 APR 95 Dealer Communications System Enhancements
0040891999 APR 95 Service Information - Microfiche/Diskette Bulletins
IDC1016 APR 95 Software Errors MoDiC, Coding Version 12.0
IDC002 APR 95 Updated DIS tester Software
0405954166 MAR 95 Infrared Transmission Device (IR)
0428944128 MAR 95 New Special Tool - Replacement Cable
0403954154 FEB 95 BMW Special Tool
0202954164 FEB 95 BMW Winter Tire Recommendations Brochure
0203954170 FEB 95 BMW Winter Tire Recommendations Brochure (After Sales)
IDC1015 FEB 95 MoDiC Software - Update
0404954155 FEB 95 New Electrical Connector Kit Supplement
0102903030 FEB 95 Revised Defect Code Microfiche
IDC1014 FEB 95 Updated MoDiC Software

0001954147 JAN 95 1995 (ETM) Manual Supplement - 8 Series
IDC024 JAN 95 MoDiC Diagnostic Software Update
0024891938 JAN 95 Product Engineering Materials - Ordering
4101954150 JAN 95 Structural Adhesives
IDC023 JAN 95 Updated CD for TIS
6402944082 DEC 94 Availability of R-12 A/C Compressors
6106944069 DEC 94 Malfunction of Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher System
1107944089 DEC 94 Radiator Coolant Hoses
6504944049 OCT 94 CMT 2000VR Telephone Number Memory
5106944039 SEP 94 BMW Individual Vehicles
0404943981 SEP 94 Simulator Tool For Bosch Oxygen Sensors
3202944041 AUG 94 BMW Key Cutting Services
6103944032 AUG 94 Brake Light Switch
1303923589 JUL 94 Engine Compartment Return Fuel Hoses
3301903168 JUL 94 Rear Axle Ratio Update
3402933855 JUL 94 Steering Wheel Vibration (Brake Induced)
2302943974 JUN 94 S6S 560G Transmission Repairs
6411933929 MAY 94 A/C Oil Charge Procedure - R12/R134a
7202933794 MAY 94 Collision Repair Guidelines: Restraint Systems
6102943990 MAY 94 Noisy Wipers, Poor Cleaning
5203933917 DEC 93 Seat Repair Video
6105933895 NOV 93 Jump Starting of Vehicles
ATRATB191 OCT 93 Failsafe Modes - Computer Shifted Transmissions
3403933857 SEP 93 ABS Sensor - Lead Faults and Repair Procedure
1111903149 SEP 93 Engine Oil Capacities and Oil Dipstick Part Numbers

6102933812 AUG 93 Emergency Flashers Self-Activate
1801933846 AUG 93 Rotten Egg Smell From Exhaust
6417923674 AUG 93 Small Flakes From A/C Vents
1308881718 JUL 93 Emission System On-Board Diagnostic Code Update
0409933817 JUN 93 BMW Special Tool For Headlights - Modification
7204933822 JUN 93 SRS (Air Bag System) - Checking
7203933820 JUN 93 SRS Deployment Reports
6101933801 MAY 93 Battery Draw
3201933752 MAY 93 Steering Wheel Repair
6405933750 APR 93 Delayed Heater Output
1203851085 APR 93 Spark Plug Application
6401903042 MAR 93 A/C System Fill Capacity
0403933739 MAR 93 Correct Usage of Motorola Telephone Diagnostic Tool Kit
3405923692 MAR 93 Diagnostic Capability of Slip Control Systems
5101933766 MAR 93 Loose Vinyl Trim
0433923693 MAR 93 New ABS/ASC Diagnostic Tool
1102933749 MAR 93 Updated Oil Pipe Hollow (Banjo) Bolt
6501933727 MAR 93 Whistle From Cellular Phone Antenna
3601933732 FEB 93 New Wheel Casting
9903923718 JAN 93 Paint Damage Due to Acid Rain
6108891896 JAN 93 Windshield Wiper Chatter - Tool Modified
6420923691 DEC 92 A/C Microfilter Introductions
9902923704 DEC 92 Color Program and Overview
1204923661 NOV 92 Fault Code 09 Sets In Electronic Throttle Control Module
0432923688 NOV 92 New Tool - Accumulator Wrench

0426923644 OCT 92 New A/C Leak Detection - R134A and R12
0429923650 OCT 92 New Tool to Spread the Rear Wheels
6413923646 OCT 92 Nominal A/C System Pressures R12/R134A
0020913302R OCT 92 Vermont CFC Legislation
6513913411 SEP 92 Cellular Mobile Telephone Description
6518923621 SEP 92 Cellular Telephone Inoperative / Poor Reception On AM
3701923613 SEP 92 Defective EDC (Dealer Communication Syhstem) Sensors
ATRATB132 SEP 92 Intermittent Electrical Problems
5202923558 AUG 92 Seatback Binding or Locked When Folded Forward
1301923469 AUG 92 Throttle Body - Standardized Components
0417923587 JUL 92 Special Tools (Body)
6106923582 JUL 92 Troubleshooting Hints For Electrical & Computer Problems
6411923569 JUN 92 A/C Compressor Shutdown
0418923594 JUN 92 Electrical Repair Kit
3204923581 JUN 92 New Software For Kds Alignment System
1105923574 JUN 92 New Valve Cover Gasket
6503923478 JUN 92 Radio Defect Card, Information Only
0416923568 MAY 92 Cable Adapter For Elo Stecker Control Module
IDC0089120 MAY 92 Current Diagnsotic and Coding Software Bst/Modic
0413923561 MAY 92 ELO Diagnostic Cable - New Special Tool
6301923502 MAY 92 LKM (Lighting Control Module) Internal Defect
ATRATB110 MAY 92 Orifice Placement - Removable Orifices
3601923467 MAY 92 Tire Applications
2409913327 MAY 92 Torque Converter Clutch Engagement
IDC001928 MAY 92 Undefined Software Message Modic System

0414923562 MAY 92 Various Special Tools
6510923508 APR 92 Audio Amplifier/Speakers Replacement Part Numbers
IDC004919 APR 92 Engine Control Module Identification
6410923536 APR 92 Hfc-134A Air Conditioning System Troubleshooting
6205923552 APR 92 Loss of On-Board Computer Data In Electronic Body MOD.
6401922121 APR 92 New BMW HFC-134A A/C Systems Description
6502923471 APR 92 Radio Interference (Whine) From Generator
0412923554 APR 92 Refrigerant and A/C Compressor Pag Oil
0010923548 APR 92 SAE J-1930 Literature Terminology
0411923545 APR 92 Special Tools
6105923551 APR 92 Unusual Faults In Vehicle Electronics and/or Theft Det.
IDC0029215 APR 92 Updated Modic Software
1111903149 MAR 92 Engine Oil Capacities
3202923535 MAR 92 Hydraulic Fluid
0406923522 MAR 92 Introduction of New Refrigerant Hfc-134A
6406923518 MAR 92 Microfilter Replacement Intervals
0407923523 MAR 92 Modic Update Program
3301903168 MAR 92 Rear Axle Ratios
1203851085 MAR 92 Spark Plug Application Chart
3401923490 FEB 92 ABS, ASC, and ASC + T Malfunctions
1102923491 FEB 92 Engine Oils
7203891835 FEB 92 Handling of Pyrotechnic Devices: Airbag Modules
1103923500 FEB 92 Intake and Vacuum System Leak Detector
6402923495 FEB 92 Non-Approved Air Conditioning Refrigerants
6102923493 FEB 92 Non-Approved Electrical Accessories

6411913438 FEB 92 Repair Microfiche For Air Conditioning Systems
3602923512 FEB 92 Wheel Fastening Bolts
0103923489 JAN 92 Brake Component Returns Under Warranty
5102923466 JAN 92 Door Brakes
1101923484 JAN 92 Engine Hydraulic Lock
0202923479 JAN 92 Freon (R) R12 Recycling Poster
0102923488 JAN 92 Fuel Injectors
0430913454 JAN 92 Loss of Program In Modic
0403923481 JAN 92 New BMW Special Tool
0401923461 JAN 92 New BMW Special Tools Release Tool, IG. Switch, A/T
2301923463 JAN 92 New Transmission Designations
0402923462 JAN 92 Special Holder, Sealer Installer, A/T
2405923520 JAN 92 Transmission Cooler Flushing
0105913300 JAN 92 Warranty Processing By Area Assignment
6508903184 DEC 91 Alpine/Pioneer CD Player Mounting Brackets
0604913334 DEC 91 Iowa's New Lemon Law
0102903030 DEC 91 Revised Defect Code Microfiche Edition 22
0104903061 DEC 91 Warranty Part Return Status Report
6410913417 NOV 91 Heating/Air Conditioning Systems Info.
ATRATB078 NOV 91 How To Use A Pressure Gauge - Automatic Trans.
6501912118 OCT 91 BMW CMT1000/CMT1000 VR Cellular Mobile Telephone
6408913373 OCT 91 Musty Odors From Air Conditioning Units
0037913398 OCT 91 New Software For Diagnose Problems With the Airbag
0034913372 OCT 91 Updated BMW Service Tester Software 2.0
2301913316 JUL 91 Shift Characteristics Notchy

6106913285 JUL 91 Weak or Discharged Battery - Charging Information
6104913280 JUN 91 Warning Lights Come On and Central Locking Unlocks
6109913297 JUN 91 Windshield Wiper System Improvements
0409903090 MAY 91 Front Radial Oil Seal Installer For Torque Converter
0405913195 MAY 91 Headlight Adjustment Nuts
0408913247 APR 91 ASC+T Bleed Tool
6103913244 APR 91 Battery Acid ( Electrolyte) Precautions
ATRATB028 OCT 90 Engine Testing With A Vacuum Gauge - Auto Trans.
1110903144 OCT 90 Timing Chain Tensioning Rail Modified
ATRATB9002006 FEB 90 Automatic Transmission Fluid
1101902097 FEB 90 New Method of Controlling Crankcase Vapors
ATRATB8930 OCT 89 Automatic Transmission Math Part 2
ATRATB8927 SEP 89 20 Steps To successful Auto Transmission Repair
ATRATB8923 AUG 89 Automatic Transmission Math Formulas
0414891873 JUN 89 Cooling Of Automobile Components for Test Purposes
0412891853 APR 89 Seat Belt Pliers
1203891838 MAR 89 High Pressure Engine Steam Cleaning
0408891843 MAR 89 Seal Pliers For Speedometer Sender
0421881707 DEC 88 Special Tools BMW
0422881715 OCT 88 Distributor Rotor Bolt Remover
0423881722 OCT 88 Rivet Pliers For Plastic Rivets
0416881672 JUL 88 Repair Of Simulator Adaptor Cables
5203881587 JUN 88 Fastening Clips For Upholstery Available
3602881627 JUN 88 Wheel Balance and Tire Assembly
0432871553 MAY 88 Seat Pivot Pin Installer/Remover

0412881624 APR 88 26-Pin Universal Adaptor Cable Leads
0408881612 MAR 88 Lateral Runout/Brake Rotor Adapter
3402881585 FEB 88 Brake Discs Checking - New Tools
0431871550 FEB 88 Transmission Alignment Gauge
0427871516 FEB 88 Upper Timing Case Cover Special Tools
ATRATB8754 SEP 87 All Automatics - Front Bushing Wear
ATRATB8748 AUG 87 Metal Sealing Rings - Automatic Transmissions
1000298 MAR 00 Service Round Table - March 2000
070296 MAR 00 Updated DIS Software CD 21
040800 FEB 00 New Special Tool CD
002292 JAN 00 Spark Plug/Engine Oil Capacity Reference Chart


The BMW dealer is a good place to begin your search for records.
Here are my recommendations:

Step 1 - Get a Vehicle History Report from BMW
Depending on where you live, I'd go to the most reputable BMW dealer. Make friends with the service advisor and ask that a Vehicle History Report be run on your car (just give the person the car's VIN). This report will detail all of the repair work that has been done at BMW North America dealerships...and outline the dealerships involved complete with addresses and phone numbers. The report will also have 'defect codes' list to which the advisor can help you decipher. For example, defect code 0064050100 is a manufacturer recall (I think it's either the radiator cap and or the airbag).

Step 2 - Call the individual BMW dealers for detailed repair service records
In addition to this report, you'll get hints at which dealers worked on the car. You can then call the service department up and ask for additional "detailed" records in their files/computer database. The vehicle history report is only a summary line-item report. The dealerships have intimate detailed histories. While you're at it, ask if the dealer would be willing to 'stamp' the service booklet for the work they've done. Arrange to send the booklet to them and have it returned to you via pre-paid postage envelope. BTW, some dealerships are willing to send you copies of the actual service repair orders....Murray Motor Imports and Ralph Schomp BMW in Denver offer this to their customers.

Step 3 - Find out the ownership lineage of your car
This sounds crazy, but I've done this. Either through the service records from your search in Step 2, or the title search with your state Division of Motor Vehicles, you'll be able to glean who owned your car and their address. Write them a note letting them know you own this great car and ask if they have records and/or recollections of service history. This step is especially helpful in that this will gain you history that was done outside of the BMW dealer network.

My three-step recommendation is a lot of work. We just went through this on our new acquisition of a 1999 BMW 750iL 39k miles (Birratz Blue). Everyone was cooperative and good-natured about our inquiries. In fact, the Florida BMW dealer near Tampa was impressed that a devoted BMW owner wanted this information since most people don't ask for it! In addition, we made contact with the previous owner and he was surprised the car ended up in Denver.

Let us know how it turns out for you. Also, if you're having problems with your local BMW dealer in getting the Vehicle History Report, drop me a line and I'll see what I can do for you.

Best,

Jud
Denver, CO
'91 850i 6sp 16k miles
'94 850CSi 33k miles (#63 of 225)