bushings

They are designed to replace part number 10 here:-

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/sho…&btnr=31_0222&hg=31&fg=05

I warn you though that in all previous known cases of fitting these, they have failed VERY quickly, usually within 10,000 miles.

The best replacements are........as I have stated a zillion times, Stock BMW E34 M5 bushes for the same application. They are a direct replacement fit and stronger/stiffer.

8Tech.

Funny.... I was just about to make a post about almost the same thing.

I came across the same company on Ebay and sendt them a mail about a complete front / rear axle bushing / ball-joint kit for my car.

And my question was if this was a serious company???

Oh, and I notised that Meyle had made a bushing like the one ziggy asked about too.

Zitat von ziggystardust

what would we do without you?

Waste a lot of time and money?

8Tech.

8Tech

Is this the right part for the M5 bushing?? Item # 8.

http://bmwfans.info/original/E…993/04/mg-31/ill-31_0250/

31 12 2 226 528

Thanks in advance

rancher40x

Yes, that is correct.

Replace in pairs only and ensure correct pre-loading procedure is followed.

8Tech.

The common mistake is to fit them and bolt them up tight with the car jacked up.

Most polybush alternatives insist you grease the sleeve and lock bolt because the idea is the arm will rotate on this bolt - something it was never designed to do.
The ploybush then simply deals with the thrust loads and not any torsional loading. If you see how stiff some of these are you will see why.
Even in a race setup you don't usually want to reduce the rotation, just the geometry distortion.

The stock item is designed to cope with both the thrust and torsion loads within the bushing material - making a rubber bush that is both easy to twist yet hard to compress is a technical nightmare - that's why they're such a complex design.
This means you have to install it facing the right way (copy your old ones as even the HD ones look very similar).
If you bolt it up tight with the car jacked up and the wheels hanging down it will be permanently twisted and under stress when you lower it and the arm moves into its normal place. It will give incorrect damping and probable suspension wobble. Worse - going over a bump will push the rotation (up into the wheel arch) of the bush past its design limit = very short life.
Bolt the arm in place but don't pinch it up tight. Make sure the bush sleeve rotates on the bolt.
Lower the car (kerb weight would be even better for perfectionists), roll it back and forwards to let the suspension settle then do uo the bolt to the correct torque.
I'm not a mechanic, but this worked for me.

UKZERO's reply is absolutely correct. Make sure the weight of the car has settled before you tighten the bolts through the bushes, then, with the car at its normal running position there is no pre-load on the bushes. The bolts can then be torqued to spec.

Failure to do this will drastically shorten the life of the bushes and can cause judder and vibrations through the steering, as well as increasing the front ride height.

8Tech.

You could do it that way but it will not be quite right as the suspension will not settle properly. Why not do it yourself like this then take it to someone with a 4 post ramp, get it up in the air, slacken off the bolts, bounce the car and then re-torque. Half hour job tops and its done correctly.

8Tech.