Best way to stop ticking lifters?

My 850 has 74k on her, the 1st thing idid upon being her new master;-) was a oil change with tru blu , runs like a sewing machine now

Nick thanks for the pointer I think I will look to change the VCV as I have put the tru - blue product in that Steve said but if anything it got worse Which to my mind point at the VCV which are probably the original ones.

Nick is it practical to clean them or just splash the cash and buy all the bits concerned including hoses (8Tech your thoughts please as you have no doubt done this once or twice)
Nick where yours blocked much also the hoses look like they have seen better days so I would change them too
Did it make much differance before you did the valve stems?
I cant help but think its worse since the Tru Blue went in which would have probably blocked these valve due to its stick nature or am I clutching at straws

I will get prices from the stealers in the morning (I do get 10-20% discount) and feedback

S*** its getting dark and raining or I would start this now!

Zitat von NickF;65211

.....What weight oil do you run? If you're running a 0Wxx then i've heard that this can blow past worn seals easily so you might want to try putting a 5W or 10W oil in before stripping it down..........

Having done a lot of research in this matter, I think that there is commonly a lot of misconception on the subject of viscocity.

A 10W-40 or 15W-40 oil will have the same viscosity at operating temperature ( ~100 C) as a 0W-40 oil. This will be round 12- 14 centistokes. (The second figure, in this case "40" defines the viscosity at 100 C)

When cold (40 C), the viscosity of the 0W-40 oil will be about, 70cSt or 5-7 times greater than when it is at 100C. So, if the engine oil doesn't leak at 100C it certainly won't leak at 40C. A 15W-40 oil will have a viscosity of 120 cSt at 40C, but at operating temperature will be like all other 40 weight oils.

The benefit of the 0W-40 oil is therefore that it will flow better when cold and start lubricating more quickly, reducing the amount of engine wear, most of which has been shown to occur during start-up.

I have used Mobil 0W-40 for the last 20 years in all kinds of cars an have never had any leaks or excessive oil consumption as a result. Recently, I decided to try Castrol TWS 10W-60 in the e31 and can't really say that the engine runs better with it; certainly fuel consumption is noticeably a little higher.

If you think that your engine is a little worn, then an oil with a higher viscocity at operating temperature might help (xW-50 or xw-60), but in itself an 0W-x oil will not promote leaks.

The other thing to bear in mind is that out of the oils with lower operating viscosities (xW-30 and xW-40) only a few, mostly the "true" synthetics meet the minimum requirements for oil-film sheer strength (HTHS >3.5), so in this respect an xW-50 or xW-60 is not a bad choice, but note that an 10W-60 oil is about 100% thicker at 100C, and 100% thicker at 40C compared to an 0W-40 oil. The engine therefore will have to work a little harder to pump the oil and overcome the additional film friction.

Usually, a 10W-50 or 10W-60 weight oil would be used to compensate for engines running under higher loads or stress, where operating temperatures may exceed 100C and therefore prevent the oil running too thin. At higher engine temperatures (110-120C), a 10W-60 oil will have the same viscosity as a xW-40 oil at 100C and this is the reason behind them. As a ball-park guide, most engine designed around operating figures of 100C and 10 cSt oil viscosity.

Well I have orderd the bits from the dealer and they should be winging their way from germany on a 3-5 day lead time. In the mean time I will take the old ones off tonight to have a look.
If I have to do the valve stem seals the tool from Midlock looks a handy bit of kit, but for now lets hope its the valves. I have read some amazing results from just changing these so you never know. Failing that a price from Gerry will be the next port of call

Thanks Nick, I will do the easy option of the VCV once they arrive. If that does not work then I will have a lend of the tools thanks
It has definately got worse since adding the tru blue stuff. I say this because after the last oil change ( and flush)about 500 mile ago or less it did not smoke at all even during heavy driving that was with a 10W oil

Nick I put in fresh 10W oil and then added the tru-blu to a hot engine (naturally as with every oil changea new filter is fitted)

NIck is actually 15W-40 (just been in the shed) as for distance I have only drive the car about 1 mile with the tru blu stuff. SHould this now be drain and or flush and new filter / oil put in? Steve your help please!

I doubt that any additive will fix or create leaking valve-stem seals. some additives may contain components that cause rubber and seals to swell, thereby temporarily fixing the problem, but it's not a long-term fix if they are fundamentally worn or decayed with age. Tru-Blu Oil-Stabiliser or Upper-Cylinder Lubricant do not actually make these claims (for valve-stem seals) in their advertising, but reading between the lines, it seems that they add Viscosity Index improvers to the oil, making it thicker and less likely to leak past worn piston rings. Hence the reduced smoke and reduced consumption. But, if you use a good oil in the first place....

Arnie its Castrol oil. So I guess my question is this and maybe Steve is best place to answer. Do I drain the oil/ tru blu mixture and filter whilst doing the VCV or should I flush it? Alternatively wait and see what differance the VCV change makes?

Zitat von Lloyd;65244

Arnie its Castrol oil. So I guess my question is this and maybe Steve is best place to answer. Do I drain the oil/ tru blu mixture and filter whilst doing the VCV or should I flush it? Alternatively wait and see what differance the VCV change makes?

I am not familiar with Tru-Blu as I have never used it. The last time I tried additives was with SLICK-50 (PTFE oil treatment) and later this was proved to total snake-oil despite various claims. I am not saying Tru-Blu is the same, but just that I now place my faith in just using good oil. However, in your case, I would use the Tru-Blu according to whatever directions are on the bottle.

With regards to the oil, Castrol is a well respected brand. However, mineral multigrade oils that flow well at low temperatures (eg regular 10W-40) require the addition of long-chain polymers to prevent the oil becomming too thin at operating temperature. These long-chains quickly become sheared-down under engine load to smaller chains and then the oil no longer remains in grade. Product like Tru-Blu attempt to replenish these long-chain molecules to maintain the viscosity of the oil.

However, syenthetic oils made from PAOs or esters require little or no additives to achieve a multi-grade oil, and consequently stay in grade almost permanently, which is why higher mileages can be recommended between change intervals.

Anyway, my point is that if you run with a good synthetic oil, then I think you need not worry about any additives.... and if these additives are really the breakthrough that their manufacturers claim them to be, then wouldn't all car companies be using them or oil manufacturers include them in their formulations?

Following on from Arnies post, I would just like to mention this

I receive regular emails from tru blu, when on my screen it states how many other reciepients have received the same email, out of interest i checked who else was buying this stuff?.

There are many motorsport customers, along with many independent workshops & a certain Somerset police force;-)

I still believe in the product, only wish I was the sole importer

Hope you get it sorted Lloydie

Steve how do you use Tru Blu do you as Nick suggests drain it after 50-60 mile or as the bottle suggests leave it in blended to the engine oil

Update: I remove all the valves this evening etc and it would seem that on the main 3 port valve you can blow in any of the outlets and air will come out of both the other outlets will little drop in pressure. Plus whilst the small valve has some resistance you can pass air in both directions.

Also with the DK motor housing removed I took a photo of inside the inlet manifold (I will load them up tomorrow) which on both sides shows oil inside the manifold not a trace in fact because of the angle of the manifold it was sitting in the lowest point 2mm-3mm deep and in two places about 20mm long also you could see a golden glow on all the inlets from the main chamber into the engine. Also the butterfly valve was very grubby(oily) on both side. In addition the connection seal on the rocker covers has been leaking too.To my mind both these indicate that the VCV are knackered and possible the cause of the smokeWhat do you guys think