Best way to liven up tired paint work

Nick it is amazing what a good polish with the right stuff can achieve. I recently used wet and dry 3000 on one of my wings as it had picked up several scratches in the laquer and it really came out nice. I am a bit of a detailing nerd and have a shed full of the stuff. If you go onto detailing world forum its amazing some of the stuff.

Hi Nick,

Lloyd is right about detailing world. The trouble is that there is so much information that you can get confused and never commit to anything. I have used most products from time to time and feel that any of the top named brands are good, Halfords stock most and I just tend to go for the best deal at the time. I must say that the Farecla wax polish I am using at the moment is unbelievable and this company does the whole range of renovation products as well.

With regard to the rust, I hate to say it but there is only one way to deal with this and that is, properly. The only experience I have had is with my sunroof which only showed a tiny spot but was worse beneath. There are a number of posts about the roof leading edge and these are usually quite severe. I know you want to try and do these things yourself but my advice would be to get the rust done professionally, once and for all at a reputable body shop.

Good luck.

Graham

Zitat von NickF;100975

...and superficial rust spots on each rear arches. They were caused by stone chips as opposed to rot, but they are quite big (see photo). I also have a few tiny rust spots on the leading edge of the roof.

Hi Nick,
I don't want to make you sad but I have the same rust on the rear wheel arch above the rocker panel.
It is not caused by stone chips, it's rotting from inside.
I had a few tiny bubbles in that area and decided to do a partial repaint.
The guy at the paint shop started to sand down the corner and the more he sanded the more rust came visible...

There is a cavity behind and that gets it's "supply" of water trough the rear side window. As this window is rarely lowered, it's stays dump in there for a long time.
(The soundproofing material there, which soaks up water doesn't help either...)

The only thing what helps is "surgical treatment". Cutting and replacing before it goes down towards the jacking points.

The roof needs to be checked as well. Most of the time a couple of bubbles mean lot's of rust underneath.
Especially if the front or rear windows have been replaced. If the removal of the old window is done careless, the paint and primer gets scratched and rust appear.

Steve

Zitat von NickF;100993

Thanks for the replies boys. I checked out detailing world, they have a meeting called Waxstock :).

I looked for Farecla and there are loads of different products to confuse me. Should I go for a colour restorer or a scratch remover? Rubbing compound or a liquid? Do you think this will do the trick? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fare…Paint&hash=item19cf0d059b

As for the rust, in the arches it really looks like stone chips, and I had the sills off and there was nothing more sinister under there. I guess I'll only find out when I get it repaired. I think I'll sand down that area and do a half-arsed spray job and see how I get on. I have no doubt i'll be back to the body shop at some stage but I'm unlikely to make the problem worse.

The roof doesn't have bubbles, it just has tiny stone chips that have gone rusty. There is nothing on or around the sunroof thankfully. I may be in denial, but I plan on staying there!

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I don't blame you, Eygpt is very warm right now;-)

Zitat von NickF;100993

I looked for Farecla and there are loads of different products to confuse me. Should I go for a colour restorer or a scratch remover? Rubbing compound or a liquid? Do you think this will do the trick? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fare…Paint&hash=item19cf0d059b

Nick, it is very difficult to recommend one product over another because there are so many differing opinions. My suggestion would be to select a product as you have done based perhaps on availability and price and then search it on detailing world to get specific performance feedback and then make your decision. While searching it would also be worth reading about hand and machine application. Machine application is not for the novice or faint hearted but if you have a sacrificial piece of bodywork that you can practice on I believe the results can be better and with a lot less elbow grease.

Hope this helps.
Cheers
Graham

Zitat von NickF;104275

... (thanks a lot Steve, it was fine until you said it was rust)...

Sorry for that.

My car is currently in a paintshop and I'm waiting for an assesment what it will take to get rid of the rost.
I posted some images here.
I held the camera inside which revealed that on the left side (where the wheel arch rotted away) the factory applied some seeling compound.
On the right side, they haven't done that and there seems to be no rust.
Probably they messed up something when they welded the pieces together and covered it up with that blob of something...
I also found rust underneath the beauty covers where the sill cover get's hit by the door (trough the rubber sealing).
A friend of mine advised me to put some thick tape on this place (after it got repaired) so the sill cover doesn't scratches the paint directly.
As the passenger side door is rarely used, there is no rust on that side.

The rear wheel arch needs new sheet metal in my case so for me it wasn't a job I can do.

Cheers,
Steve

Zitat von NickF;104389

Cheers Steve, given time I may even forgive you...

I hope you will...

Zitat von NickF

... but it's depressing driving around in a car like an 8 with visible rust so I wanted to get rid now.

I understand that completely Nick, that was the reason why I let my one partially resprayed a year ago. It just doesn't fit an elegant car like ours...

I still can't say how much such a repair cost as the guy finds new excuses every day why he could not look at it yet.
(I wish I could do everything myself.)

Cheers,
Steve