Banjobolts again x 2

  • both in aerospace and oilfield it is wirelocking that is the no.1 way to lock anything. second is split pins.
    We do see Norlock in some places in the oilfield now so I'm familiar with that too.
    However wire is still preffered as it will generally hold the item in place if it fails (i.e snaps off, shears ect) and it wont drop and hit someone.


    As this forum is a lot about bang for bucks, you really can't beat a piece if twisted steel wire.


    I am a little skeptical to the small plates, are they bent and of a steel with some spring in it?
    to me it looks like it works pretty much like a spring washer at best.

    -Egil (thats my name)

    1990 850IA Hartge SC
    2012 M550d Touring

    If I misspelled a word it's because I'm Norwegian, so bear with me.

  • I am assuming those plates shown are not fully fitted as I would expect to see one edge tapped up to positively lock one face of the hex.


    As it is, it locks nothing.


    Also, copper and alloy washers crush and over time can lose their tension, hence (I believe) loosen the bolt.


    This will never happen with stainless steel lock wire.

  • Zitat von arnie;105235

    It's would be best to replace the banjo-bolts completely. The pre-applied threadlocker may work, but you'll never be sure. It may be OK for a year or two and then... However, I guess for the threadlocker to have the best chance of working you'd need to degrease the female threads.

    I would buy a set of new bolts and then drill the heads so that they can be wire-locked


    This is by far, the best option.:top:

  • Thanks Reinhard.


    I was not being deliberately awkward but didn't want anyone to buy a set and then think they were installed as shown previously.


    Your second pic is far more informative to anyone choosing that option and works correctly as shown.


    No criticism was intended.


    8Tech.



  • 16 of these heading my way from Engl :top: and together with new banjobolts with treadlocker preapplied I would think it should stay in place ( of course mounted correctly ) as seen in this pix.

    Regards
    Terje

  • This issue has been very interesting and informative if not slightly worrying for M70 owners. We are lucky on this forum to be kept informed of such matters but what of the many other owners that could not possibly know about this?


    My question is, what are the symptoms or problems that arise if the banjo bolts have come loose? Obviously it is a concern if the bolts are found to be loose when checked, but does anyone actually know of any instance where this has led to major problems.


    My final question or plea is, could someone do a "how to" on how to get to the stage where the bolts can be checked; I had a look the other day and :vroam:


    I can be quite handy but didn't have a clue where to start.


    Thanks
    Graham

  • Basically no symptoms until.... it´s too late.
    Cam lobes deprived of oil will start to wear. Once this has started it is moving towards a very expensive repair usually requiring a new camshaft.
    This happening (once wearing down: increasing valvetrain noise, loss of power in upper rev range) basically led to the detection of the root cause: loose banjo bolts.


    A few cases of worn cam lobes are known here. Many others escaped that fate :top:


    Cheers
    Reinhard

  • Zitat von reinhard;105752

    Basically no symptoms until.... it´s too late.


    Understood, so what is the procedure for exposing these critters as it looks to be quite an extensive dismantling job to get to them?


    Thank you
    Graham

  • Yes this procedure pretty much decribes it , but is making it look worse than it really is, we used one evening to pull two cars apart. mounting is taking longer as we constantly find new things we would like to replace:grin2: Gasolin hoses and possibly the water hoses in the rear is good to do at the same time ( sparkplugs are also easy now :laugh: )

    It's pretty much unbolting and there are two tricky bolts on the inntakes and one on the dynamo for one cable.
    and you need to get under the car to disconnect the oil levelsensor cable.

    Cables look a lot better in the E31, than in this example , and if I had an engine looking like this I would have cleaned it before starting :harhar:


    Zitat von reinhard;105768

    On this page you will find the general procedure to get down there.

    Not having done this myself I´d probably just pester Terje (Huldra66) about additional information.

    :winkwink:
    Reinhard




    In this pictures you see Cables liftet up and just used a tie strap to secure it against the hood , and pix of the parts removed.

  • Zitat von Fatandre;105773

    Now thats a workplace where you want to spend your time.


    I thought the same thing!


    Zitat von Fatandre;105773

    Have you ever been to Poland? :D


    No, but I am beginning to think just about anywhere has to be better than this overcrowded and depressing island; I think maybe somewhere with a bit more sun though:)



    Thank you Reinhard and Terje for the directives. It is still quite a job that I will clearly have to get around to at some stage; it is not a winter's evening job that's for sure.


    I can't believe everyone else on here already new how to do it, or did they?


    Cheers
    Graham

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