Headlight beam height adjustment?

  • Hello chaps, just a quick one. I'm sure I've moaned about this before but my xenons seem like they really don't reach very far in front of the car at all. I had them adjusted by my local BMW garage way back when (1 year maybe) not long after I had them fitted, and they used their MOT aiming boxes but the light just doesn't go far enough on to the road. It's really poor compared with new cars fitted with xenons and equally poor when compared with my previous car and the aftermarket xenons I fitted to that. I wanted to adjust the dipped beam height ever so slightly, just to get a bit more distance and I was just wondering how you go about this. I know there are various screws and talk of special tools but I'm not sure how to do it. Thanks muchly!

  • Seb
    Sorry for the delay, but just catching up on old posts. I had exactly the same problem. Its so easy with the right tools: what you'll need is the socket equivalent of a Torx drive. These sockets have E numbers starting at E4 (same size as T20 from memory), E5=T25 etc, etc. A big Halfords should do a set, otherwise get a factor to order in from catalogue. i.e. Draper etc. The two Torx-like studs on the outside of the binacle (E5?) move the entire suite of three lamps and its recommended in the service manual that you do this first to set the dip beams. Top stud is Up/down, bottom is left/right. When you are happy with the dips, remove the body-colour cover and take off the appropriate plastic cover to get at the main beams. There's just one stud and its a tight fit, but a small 1/4" ratchet drive plus E5 socket will get in to adjust the up/down aim. Should you then decide that you don't like the resultant fog-light aim you will have to remove the front glass which is held in place by 6 clips. Invest in a new gasket if you intend to do this BTW. There, behind the glass, but accessible only from the front, are the fog-light adjusters which are exactly the same as the others.

    If you still need to do this and don't have the manual then PM me and I'll happily forward what you need. By the way, I got lucky on yet another (fruitless) trip looking for an E-socket set when, amazingly, I pulled up behind our local Snap-On Tools merchant's van on an industrial estate. I had the car with me, so I showed him what I needed and he sold me the wrench + socket set + 2 inch extension there and then. And he had a credit card machine! A little over £100 I felt was well spent - after all I think I've got the best aimed headlights on the fleet. And the tools really ARE guaranteed for life.

    That reminds me, you will definitely need a 2 inch extension to get on the exterior studs.

    Edited to add this: If you want to work on the headlights (i.e. glass removal) they need to be up, but obviously this need the lights to be on. Not a great combination. So put the dips on, next remove the fuse that controls the headlight up/down motor, then turn the lights off. Works a treat. I also got loads more light on the road by carefully wiping clean the hemispherical lenses and interior of the front glass. We need all the light we can get with this motor, as you know!

    1997 E31 840Ci Sport
    2009 Mini Cooper
    2008 Toyota RAV-4 XT-R

    Do every act of your life as if it were your last.

  • Zitat von Seb;67570

    Brilliant, thanks for that!



    Just to add a comment on the headlamp up issue - if you switch them on and off again 5-6 times repeatedly then they will stay up. An alternative to removing the fuse is to undo the screw connector for the motor but I normally use the on/off repeat until lamps-stay-up mode.

    Cheers for the excellent right up on adjustment, I will be using this soon!

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