Key will not return to position 0

From my experience this is a purely mechanical issue. As long as you can get the key out it is easy to swap the locking cylinder. It changes drastically once this option has gone
For me it usually worked to turn the key back and forth a few times but it becomes irritating over time if you´d like to leave the car but rather not wish the key to remain inside.
Although not cheap at roughly 60 EUR (50GBP), swapping the cylinder might be your best bet.

Cheers
Reinhard

There is a mechanical interlock with the transmision lever through a bowden cable. The lever must be in park before the key can be removed. However, this does not prevent the key being turned to position-0.

Either the lock cylinder is worn, as Reinhard suggested or the cable mech may require adjustment lubrication.

Pull off the base of the leather boot around the gear lever and then undo two small screws which hold the surround, you'll then be able to see the black bowden cable towards the front of the lever. Check that it is connected and that it moves properly.

I had exactly the same issue Tim. Some days it was fine and others it refused to budge. I used to move from P to D a few times , and whether by coincidence or not, it eventually came out. In the end I tired of all the fannying about and swapped the mechanism. Touch wood it's been fine ever since.

Timm I see your car is now for sale, but to be replaced by another 8

Mora metallic? Only 26 or so in that colour!
I have one too, also on a T plate, with light tan interior - is that similar to yours?

Yes, I'd say that is "Champagne" Nappa, which I also had in my 728i. From the pics, it looks to be in first class condition and a great acquisition.

Mine is still off the road whilst I try to renew the front suspension and fix a million other things.

I've no idea where the others are but I don't think that my Mora 840i is properly on the registry yet.

Everytime I see your cars in UK or around I' m just speechless. They are all wonderfull. Happy drives with the new one.

Zitat von Timm;88397

I replaced the lock tumbler - which was quite fiddly to say the least! No Bowden cable on the later models, the interlock is electronic. Here's how it is done:

http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/L…k_Tumbler_Replacement.htm

And, the money shot:

Thanks for the help on this one, it was a bit tricky (but easy once you have done it)!

Timm,
I had my ignition lock turning in a complete rotation and read you excellent article on replacing the lock and determined it was the small Tang that had broken off. This proved to be the case. I have to say, that without your comments regarding perseverance, I would have given up on trying to get the old lock out and have the car taken to the main agents. Eventually, after keep returning to the new lock to "test" the process, I eventually got the old lock out after 1.5 hours of sheer frustration. I noted that the alignment of the cut-outs inside the lock aperture were incorrect for the fitment of the new lock (because the old lock had turned in position) so had to move these with a screwdriver.

New lock and new key all working great - thanks again! (although I have not been able to register all three original keys with the central locking/GM module) How do you tell which is the "first" key to use in the registration process?

FRUSTRATION: I turned the ignition on, but the car wouldn't start, tried a few times, then it fired up, drove it out of the garage and the next morning it will not start. The ignition comes on, but when I turn the key - nothing!! It's a 1999 model so I don't know if it has the Start Relay fitted, but I've bought one anyway and will try to find it's location (inside passenger footwell, behind speaker grille?). If this doesn't fit or solve the problem, perhaps a re-initiation of the keys? ANy thoughts TIm?

Went to it today and turned the ignition to start - ominous "clink" sound from starter but didn't turn engine over. Tried again and it started so I guess it needs a new starter (well solenoid at least). I hear they are a pig to get out with everything else in situ. Any handy tips anyone?

Very often its only a bad connection from the ground cable which connects the engine to the body. Mostly the connection at the body is corroded. On lefthand drive cars this cable is from the right engine mount to the body.

Got the chaps at SK Automotive on the Wirral (close to where I am contracting) to replace the starter and everything is fine, thankfully. I had tried to remove the starter earlier in the year, using a mate's pit, but there was no way I could get a spanner onto the retaining bolts. The guys at SK did it in one hour so a £75 well spent in my opinion.

Now just need to get the Interior Lights working and one bank (passenger) illuminated in the driver's window control switch unit. Any suggestions on either of these issues would be appreciated.