Best way to stop ticking lifters?

If they´re no longer working as a valve replace them . Cheap fix.

Remove your air filter inserts to see whether oil has come all that way too.

Ideally you´d be cleaning the MAFs, intake runners and DK motors else you will likely be smoking blue for a while to come.

The valve is 1115 1720131 and listed at less than 7 EUR incl. taxes.

Cheers
Reinhard

Reinhard I have ordered all the following (extract from RealOEM)just to be on the safe side. As for the filter elements they were ok and there does not seem to be any oil inside the MAF although I will check again tonight
01VOLUME CONTROL VALVEZYL.7-12111151718642$34.60
01VOLUME CONTROL VALVEZYL.1-6111151718713$34.60
02Adapter211151715844$2.53
03Vent hoseZYL.1-6111151720390$11.94
03Vent hoseZYL.7-12111151720391$10.94
04Vent hoseZYL.1-6111151720392$11.61
04Vent hoseZYL.7-12111151720393$10.94
05Hose clampL18-2420712995210906
06Non-return valve211151720131$11.38

I would still take the opportunity to check your fuel hoses, which if still original are likely to leak, particularly around the clamps. They can be accessed, just by removing the top engine sound insulation panel.

Arnie I had a quick look at the hoses last night and one did not look too clever, but I take you point while I am at it I may as well change them too.

Nick the product I used from Tru Blu was the stabiliser

Zitat von Lloyd;65273

Arnie I had a quick look at the hoses last night and one did not look too clever, but I take you point while I am at it I may as well change them too....

I noted that the rubber itself tends to look OK, but they are clamped with on-time-use clips, which can be undone, but not tightened further. With time and heat, the rubber under the clip loses its elasticity and then the joint starts to leak. I had big leaks in my system. The main fuel hoses are 13mm or 5/8", but there are also some smaller vaccum hoses that are 8mm and these tend to go hard and crack.

Here's a photo of inside one of the inlet chambers

Another shot

I am very sorry to say that I may have given you the incorrect dimensions for this smaller hose.

I was referring to Nos 10 & 11 (&12) in the diagram, but I see that they are specified as 6mmx11mm (IDxOD).

Zitat von NickF;65301

Thanks Arnie. I replaced 3 and 4 as they literally snapped they were so brittle, but they were standard 13mm fuel hose. Any idea what this little lot does? I'd guessed it was fuel tank breather? Also do you know if it would make any difference if you got 3 & 4 mixed up as i didn't mark the pipes and guessed when i put it back together ?

They are part of the fuel-tank vapour purge system. The fuel vapour is collected in the carbon cannister and then the solenoid valves open every now and then to purge the fuel vapours into the engine. It should not matter about left or right (I think), but it's important that the system will operate properly, as if the valve is always open, the engine could run rich and if there are cracks in the hoses, then you have an extra source of unmetered air into the engine and it could cause rough idling and possibly run lean. The two solenoid valves might be separetely controlled by each ECU, but upto the valves, the tubing comes from a common Y-splitter.

The Real-OEM listing shows these hoses should be 6mmx11mm with No.12 having an outer anti-abrasion shield.

Part have not arrived at the stealer yet fingers crossed they arrive tomorrow as I need the car this friday as my daugther wants me to take her to the prom in it

Update the new VCV are in place together with all new hoses and seals etc. Differance not much!! The smoke does not really come out on idle but does under heavy pedal conditions mainly out of the exhaust on the driver side so it looks like it valve stem seal time!!

I will however need to use the car this friday but other than that will limit its use until its sorted. I will now start another thread to ask for advice etc.

Well guys I have developed noisy tappets so I flushed it out with two cans of Wynns and change the filter and oil. I have since drove the car 15 miles but the ticking is still there. I assumed the ticking was blocked lifters or coupled with the fact I only seem to do sub 5 mile journeys these days.

So I guess my question is will taking it for a run help or is it time to change the hydraulic lifters(all 24!!). That said will I need to borrow Nicks tool again or is it easier to losen the cam shaft?
Your thoughts guys would help!

what mileage are we talking about here?
my 850 has about 92.000miles on it and the cam timing was way out.
My car had the camshaft replaced with performance ones after 15.000 miles, which means that the timing changed that much in less than 80.000 miles.

On bank 7-12 it was about 1 tooth out, on 1-6 just over a tooth out.

I would say if you open up the engine to do the timing is well worth doing and really is not a big job to do.

Zitat von Noggie;83861

what mileage are we talking about here?
my 850 has about 92.000miles on it and the cam timing was way out.
My car had the camshaft replaced with performance ones after 15.000 miles, which means that the timing changed that much in less than 80.000 miles.

On bank 7-12 it was about 1 tooth out, on 1-6 just over a tooth out.

I would say if you open up the engine to do the timing is well worth doing and really is not a big job to do.

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Being one tooth out sounds like it wasn't set up properly in the first place. A chain will stretch as it wears but one tooth pitch is a lot.