Specialist tool service.

    I'm not sure if this would be more appropriate in the DIY fixes section or better maybe as a sticky so I can add to it, but I am now making available, specialist tools to hire for certain tasks on the cars.

    I have available a rear wheel bearing removal and installation tool just arrived



    as well as engine timing kits for both the V8 and V12 engines. Also available, viscous fan and waterpump pulley tools, coil spring clamps, leakdown and compression testers, brake bleeders, transmission oil pumps, clutch centering tool and coolant pressure refil/bleed system.

    This service is for the UK only and excludes small hand tools such as the headlamp fitting tools, Torx bits and sockets and torque wrenches.

    Please note that these are not your usual DIY tools and you will still need to be a proficient technician to use them as in general, they do NOT come with instructions.

    8Tech.

    Lloyd, if the movement is top to bottom only it may indicate a problem with #10 below. A worn wheel bearing would give movement in all directions.



    That was the problem on mine recently. It's pretty easy to spot the movement where it joins the chassis if you jack the car up, get underneath and get someone else to wiggle the wheel.

    #10 is a very common failure too, so good chance it's that. You can get recons from wokke but even then they're not cheap. Easy fit though.

    Hi guys,

    I have the same issue at the moment, bolt 11 and washer 12 are listed as Eccentric, so I assume the alignment will be out after re fitting?

    Would and simple Camber & Castor Gauge be good enough to put it back where i got it from?


    Thanks

    Wez


    Same experience here. But since the bearing isn't available as a separate item people seem to avoid this repair.


    Cheers
    Wolf


    Hi Wez,


    Purchase a new washer, nut and bolt before you start. Scratch the rust :top: from around the bolt and nut before you undo them to mark the position on the subframe.


    Fit the new arm and position the eccentric in the same position as your rusty scratch mark and you are good to go. It will be so close to the setting you had before as to be unmeasureable difference.


    Then you just need to hope the camber/caster was correct before you started.


    Cheers,


    8Tech.

    Zitat von Lloyd;103907

    Gents I hear a noise when I am driving slowly which sound like a bearing:hmmmm:


    If it sounds like a wheel bearing, it probably is unless you have a bush on the rear trailing arms so worn, the rubber has moved and the pin is resting on metal.


    Those bearings are an absolute bitch sometimes and the very worst case of mission creep you may ever encounter.


    Good luck cos me and Simon are going away for the next 12 years, to an incommunicado monastery in Tibet, or until you have fitted it yourself.:winkwink:


    Is that a bird? Is it a plane? No, its Simon walking to Tibet.


    8Tech.

    @ Gerry - a quick question, I recently refitted my 18" wheels back on the car. Upon removing the 17" rears I noticed that one of them has an almost bald area on the inside shoulder - bald all the way around. My guess is that this is an alignment issue, could bearing #10 as listed above be the culprit for this?

    Cheers
    Jason

    Unlikely, that joint would account for continuously changing camber, but most likely this would NOT cause inner edge wear.


    I would suspect rear tracking to be at fault.


    You need to check all the balljoints back there and especially those front bushes in the rear trailing arms.


    Sorry to keep on about those but they always get missed and they are difficult to diagnose as they support a couple on tons of car so the hand wiggle test is worthless and a big lever bar in there, about 3 feet long is needed to check them. If the rubber is visually separating from the outer case of the bush, it will probably fall apart when the arm is removed!! These will cause excessive front/aft motion of the trailing arms/axle, continuously altering the toe between toe out during acceleration, and toe in during braking and decelleration.


    If you are confident everything is secure back there, you need an alignment and you need it with the car correctly loaded, ie, a KDS.


    Specs are.....


    Full tank of fuel
    14kg in the boot
    68kg in each front seat.


    Then do the alignment. Models vary slightly but as a safe bet, when loaded, set rear tracking at parallel to 1/4 degree toe in and camber from 1 to 2 degree negative. The nearer the -2 to improve handling especially if you have front camberplates fitted, overall nearer 1.5 deg negative for optimum without camberplates.


    Hope that helps,


    8Tech.

    To be fair Gerry it may have been brake pad/shoe rub as the car had sat for 6+ weeks. I seem to only drive the car once every 4-6 weeks for a few miles these days other than that she sits on the drive collecting dust which is a real shame. I do have two number 16 bushes BMW spec which have sat in the draw for forever with a plan to overhaul the rest of the rear set up so maybe its time. I will try and find the time to jack the car up and check for movement sit to side etc. I also plan to check the rear shoes just in case something has happended there before I even think about the bearing so put the passports back in the safe for now anyway.

    :driving2:Its been a year since I sold her and I still miss her.......





    Lloyd

    Hi Lloyd,


    Check the handbrake shoes for delaminating from their backing plate. I have seen this a few times where the metal base of the shoe rusts and pushes the friction surface off the shoe. It eventually falls off and jams the wheel, damaging all the fixings and components within the "drum".


    Other than that, surface corrosion on the backside of the disc is extremely common on cars that sit around outside too much without being used.


    Cheers,


    Gerry.

    We Gerry you were almost right in that it was handbrake shoe related. I took the rear drives side disk off and found that one of the retaining spring loaded pegs ( nto sure of the real name but the fix the shoe mid way to the rear cover plate) had pulled it back through the back plate it was very thin. So it couldnt be fitted and stay in place as the back plate ideally needs to be changed but I guess thats not easy. Alternatively thinking about other car in the past I could use one of the washers that has a slotted centre. Anyway I took both shoes off and pulled out the wedged spring that was rubbing at the bottom. Sound gone! Yes the is a little movement which feels like the bush Nick indicated however it is a very little movement but now on the list of jobs to be done at some point. For now I just need to solve the retaining pin spring thing.

    :driving2:Its been a year since I sold her and I still miss her.......





    Lloyd

    Hi Lloyd, good news about the noise going, and cheap too...result. Just to let you know my arms had pretty small movement in them but that translated to a bigger movement at the wheel (although still small) and my friendly MoT guy failed it on worn wheel bearings. He said it may be the suspension, but failed it none the less. I think he was being over picky but just in case you have the same issue you'll know what to do.
    Cheers, Nick

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