A/C controls

  • Hey again!

    Right. On the way to work in the sticks today, I had the air conditioning on. I usually have it around 18 on the dial, with the A/C on and the auto recirculating on as well.

    However...it started blowing hot (prob. around 24/26) when it was on 18. I tried fiddling around with the controls, but it still remained hot. It was only when I put it to around 17 and below it went freezing cold.

    BTW...this only happens at the driver's side. the passenger side temp. control is absolutely fine, and blows cold when selected.

    Anyone had this before, or does anyone suggest where I might start? :dontknow: I was thinking either the wheel itself, or maybe a temp sensor somewhere??

    FYI...I had a full a/c service 3 weeks ago, new condenser and new aux. fan fitted.

    ANY help would be great! Cheers guys! :eek:

    ------------------------------------------
    BMW 840ci Sport Invididual 1997
    Land Rover Freelander HSE Td4 2004
    Maserati Shamal 1996

  • This is a typical sign for failing heater valves (stuck open). Loc just in front of firewall pass side (RHD) under a black lid. This is more or less an assy with the addtnl. water pump which is known to have brittle with age connectors.


    You best bet for peace of mind is replace both in order to do the work only once ;)


    Cheers
    Reinhard

  • Hey Reinhard...thanks for your help!

    now I'm not particuarly mechanically minded...so is this a case of taking it to a mechanic? lol! if so, how much of a job is it/are the bits expensive (thats a stupid question, of course its expensive)! :laugh:

    Cheers!

    ------------------------------------------
    BMW 840ci Sport Invididual 1997
    Land Rover Freelander HSE Td4 2004
    Maserati Shamal 1996

  • Not that expensive.



    Heater valves #7 are ca. 150 EUR incl. taxes. and the water pump #9 is 110 EUR. There may be the usual holiday island premium on your side :roll:
    There is some likelihood that you will need a new cover #15 because it might break upon removal (pull straight up, feeling strong). You will also need a number of hose clamps and if brittle also replace short hoses #1-#4 (between 7 and 17 EUR ea).
    Once in there I´d recommend to replace the #15 rubbers @ 3,3 EUR ea since they are responsible for an annoying "click" in your car when the heater is running and the rubbers have become hard over time.


    This is a straighforward DIY job in fact. I assume that a workshop will charge 1-2 hrs for the labour.


    Cheers
    Reinhard

  • Hey Reinhard thanks very much!

    I think I would wince at the thought of me doing it myself...unless it was INCREDIBLY straightforward or someone had step by step instructions :D

    ------------------------------------------
    BMW 840ci Sport Invididual 1997
    Land Rover Freelander HSE Td4 2004
    Maserati Shamal 1996

  • That heater valve and pump are a lot more expensive than that here in the UK and with a RHD car are not easy to fit. I would check the drivrs side zone temp sensor first though.


    8Tech.

  • Price comparison might be in order then. The prices I quoted are without any rebates that we can get here. Ordering here will knock off another 10-15% off the prices given. If time does not play an all important role we can relay this from Germany. Shipping to the UK will run @ 18EUR per parcel up to 10kgs.


    What makes it more difficult than in a LHD car?


    If anything I actually would have expected to be easier to reach in a RHD car due to the hydraulics and brake booster setup being on the other side.


    Anyone with a picture of where it has been relocated to in a RHD car?


    LHD car location:



    Cheers
    Reinhard


    PS: only one interior temp sensor in the IHKA control unit.

  • Cheers Reinhard for your help (again!)

    I've been thinking over lunchtime, what if its a variable resistor in the control unit in the dash...like a hedgehog? of so, that would explain the very quick turn from ice cold to hot rather than just hot or just cold no matter what the turn of the wheel internally. Plus, as (I would assume) there are two var. resistors, the one at the passenger side is still fully functional, just the one at the driver side isnt?

    ------------------------------------------
    BMW 840ci Sport Invididual 1997
    Land Rover Freelander HSE Td4 2004
    Maserati Shamal 1996

  • I have a spare valve if you want it. It's pretty old (from my 91) but it was working when I replaced it alongside my pump. The job is easy but fiddly as everything is very tight. Remember to bleed the cooling system afterwards (also easy) as you will introduce air. I'm not convinced the valve is at fault as I think the hot air doesn't go away when the valve fails. Good luck. Nick

  • thanks Nick, I will let you know when I get it diagnosed and find out what is up with it!

    ------------------------------------------
    BMW 840ci Sport Invididual 1997
    Land Rover Freelander HSE Td4 2004
    Maserati Shamal 1996

  • Reinhard described the parts involved very well and I would add that his saying 'some likelihood' that the cover will break upon removal equals about a 95% chance that it will from my experience. It's not really a matter of whomever being careless, but heat and age make these brittle and the design of the snap rings in the grooves of the acorn nuts makes it an extremely secure fit. Also if the rubbers (vibration dampers) are borderline, then the upward pulling will take them over the edge and they will separate/break. If you go the replacement route of the valve/aux pump, just order the rubbers (3) and the cover too at the onset to save yourself time.

  • Thanks Rcrad. BTW do you think it could be the air con limit switch (sword)? I just find it odd re; a valve failing, because if it has, surely it would fail in either open or closed, and not allow me control of hot or cold? however, i can still get both.

    Do you have any idea where i can find the limit switch? Cheers!

    ------------------------------------------
    BMW 840ci Sport Invididual 1997
    Land Rover Freelander HSE Td4 2004
    Maserati Shamal 1996

  • Spooky but true...........




    Location is IDENTICAL for LHD/RHD cars.
    I could never understand this, but the brakes/hydraulics etc., have not been transposed for RHD cars.....the brake 'action' from the pedal assembly is carried over by a 'lever/bar' arrangement.....very heath-robinson indeed.

    I don't think it's any more difficult in RHD than LHD....just very tight and little room to manoeuvre in there.

    Lots of coolant bleeding to do afterwards don't forget, good luck.

  • Hi everyone...


    OK...an update...


    Everything is now working fine with the car. A/C works fine, the dials respond, etc. No idea what all that was all about, but I'll keep monitoring it this week before Gaydon and update as and when!!


    Hope everyone is preparing...:laugh:

    ------------------------------------------
    BMW 840ci Sport Invididual 1997
    Land Rover Freelander HSE Td4 2004
    Maserati Shamal 1996

  • ah the car heard me, the air con is going mental again. now it just decides to heat and cool at free will.


    I am getting the sword changed out, and will wait to see what happens!

    ------------------------------------------
    BMW 840ci Sport Invididual 1997
    Land Rover Freelander HSE Td4 2004
    Maserati Shamal 1996

  • Zitat von anguswolfendale;67847

    Rheinhard,


    Your picture could be of my engine bay!
    ...


    Though this pic must be of a LH-drive car, as down in the engine bay you can see the hydraulic hose from the steering box on the left side.

    .


    Das was du heute denkst, wirst du morgen sein.
    Buddha


    .

  • So heres me dragging up Old posts in order to cure my car before it gets too hot this year & I melt;-)


    I've similar problem in so far as there is no respite from hot air unless it's all switched to off on the fan.


    So how did you sort out your car Violetduck??



    Should I expect to replace parts under the bonnet or the heater control side of things inside the car?


    I'd be very grateful for any pointers:)

    Those who risk nothing,achieve nothing,become nothing.

  • If you have no control over the fan speed (either full-on or off), then the final-stage unit (Sword) has failed. If the fan works fine but will only blow out hot air, the most likely cause is the water-valves which are up against the firewall right next to the RHS (when viewed from the front of the car) electronics box.

    The valves are under a plastic cover, seen here as described above:



    The valves look like this (aux water pump is strapped underneath):

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