Can you drift an 8 Series?

  • Ah I see. I got them out last weekend, because I had to change the headlamp cleaning nozzles. It took me a couple of hours to get them alligned. Very time consuming, although small adjustment are done quickly.

  • That is quite an achievement on an auto transmission 840i.


    I bet that isn't a power slide though, did you put it into a tight corner to get the rear to break away then throttle to keep the rear tyres slipping?


    For a true drift I think you would need a manual transmission, probably a CSi and you would need to control the understeer, (camberplates) first before you would put down enough power to break the rear away with power alone and hold it.


    It's not for me though with the price of 295/35 x 18's!


    I really have to ask though, if your headlamps sit that out of alignment normally, why have you not adjusted them? Too busy playing in car parks! he he.


    8Tech.

  • Nice one Seb 8)


    Obviously this is an issue for some, but on the headlights I didn't see removing them being a problem with alignment. When I fitted my HID kit I had to remove the whole assembly so as to hide the ballast units away out of sight. As I'm not an avid engine bay cleaner :) when I lifted the unit away from their mounts there were 4 perfectly clean areas showing where the unit sat. On refitting I simply spent a little time getting the light unit to sit back on the clean areas and tightened the bolts. Perfect alignment, and been passed by MOT since. Clearly this is just my experience though. Maybe harder for you guys who like to show off their engines..... :lol:


    I've never properly drifted in my life, apart from 10 years ago on a snow covered carpark in '74 VW Beetle..... so that doesn't really count..... but it does look fun, except the bill for tyres :lol: Presumably you stuck the autobox into Manual mode and kept the revs under the limiter so it didn't change up against your will ?


  • Thanks 8Tech and Tony :) Regarding whether or not it's a true powerslide (I'd like to think it is!) and how I did it, my technique was traction off, EDC to Sport, stick it in manual mode, second gear, then drive slowly with some lock on and boot it. The rear then broke away very easily and I corrected the slide and kept the power in. Once I had it sideways it was quite happy to drift like that at about 20-30mph for some distance - the picture was taken about halfway through that drift. I tried a number of different techniques to get it sideways, including trying to get it to lift off oversteer, but it wasn't having any of it and kept rewarding my efforts with understeer. In the end a heavy right foot was the answer and it worked a treat! I've only got 265/40 17s to worry about at the moment, though I actually did more damage to the fronts following my wild understeer.


    As for my lights, the car's been in the garage for two weeks or so but they are so busy they didn't have the time to fix everything before I had to pick it up for a few days and it's now gone back in so once they start working on it again I'll ask them to take a look. In three weeks of ownership I've only actually had it for about five days!

  • I made a powerside with my 850 on a track, probably had close to 50kph through the slide, lots of smoke :). sadly no pictures, but powersliding is possible with an e31, but i bet an LSD would make it alot easier.

    -Egil (thats my name)

    1990 850IA Hartge SC
    2012 M550d Touring

    If I misspelled a word it's because I'm Norwegian, so bear with me.

  • Yup, from your description I will congratulate you on a confirmed powerslide. Ain't that understeer a bitch! Sortable though with camber plates.


    As Tony says, when you shift the lamps, they will leave a clean mark where they were, but if like me, you just HAVE to clean everything you find, then it will be more time consumming.


    I apologise in advance if you already know how to do it, but if not, and for the benefit of any other readers who have a similar problem, and assuming you DO NOT HAVE the special BMW tool to do this, then lift the bonnet, remove the metal headlamp covers and you will see 4 large securing nuts, 17mm (I think) fitted over studs with a hex (allen key) insert. Unlock the nuts and as you screw the allen socket it will raise or lower the lamp in that position and allow lateral movement. Refit the headlamp cover, shut the bonnet and re-check.
    Then do it again........and again.....and again.......until its either straight, you've gone grey or you have lost the will to live!
    In any case, its hopefully closer than when you started. An old wooden ruler across the headlamp cover is the best way I found to get it right.


    8Tech.

  • Don't forget to check the bonnet is lined up with the wings first. Sometimes they don't close accurately so a little adjustment to the latches may help.

  • An upper strut brace will do nothing to improve rigidity on the front of an E31.
    The underbody "X" brace as fitted to later cars will help, but not in body strength but by re-inforcing the suspension arm mounts.
    The strut brace looks good but serves no function, the choice is yours.


    8Tech.

  • Zitat von 8Tech

    An upper strut brace will do nothing to improve rigidity on the front of an E31.
    The underbody "X" brace as fitted to later cars will help, but not in body strength but by re-inforcing the suspension arm mounts.
    The strut brace looks good but serves no function, the choice is yours.


    8Tech.


    for sure it helps

  • Zitat von 8Tech

    An upper strut brace will do nothing to improve rigidity on the front of an E31.
    The underbody "X" brace as fitted to later cars will help, but not in body strength but by re-inforcing the suspension arm mounts.
    The strut brace looks good but serves no function, the choice is yours.


    8Tech.


    We can agree to disagree. There is a way to test it and I did to prove that it works (RoadFly archives) to reduce flex in hard conditions. But then again, I track my car and 90% here does not and may never see the benefit of it. I also have a lot of suspension modifications including 28.5mm front and 19mm rear anti sway bars and Front camber plates set to have a front camber of -1.6 degrees.

  • I have one in the car to the left of my Avatar, It feels sturdier and flatter than the other car without the Brace, It is a noticeable "+" difference! I would be missing something without it.

  • How can one claim that a front strut brace adds no value when, in fact, it helps every other single car on the planet? What is so special about the 8-Series that negates the added stiffness of a tower bar? :roll:



    BTW: You won't find a car on the D1 circuit without a tower bar and when I put the tower bar on my R32 Skyline, the added benefit was noticable instantaneously.

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