Mini-drama with flat battery/ car in very narrow garage

  • Hi guys
    Been reading an old thread of Timms talking about flooding the M60 engine in some cold-start type scenarios. Wondering if I may have inadvertently done this to my M62.:roll:


    Tried turning the engine over 2 days ago, no use of car for about 2 weeks but this has never been a problem previously, the batteries are only about 2.5 years old. The car has never failed to start first time.


    Basically car wouldn't start, i made 3-4 half hearted attempts, without turning key for too long, before i gave up.
    Tried again yesterday and the same story.


    I've heard that people do not recommend jump starting an E31, but at present (due to car being parked rear-end first in a very compact, thin garage) i cannot even open my boot(!!) to try to access the batteries.. what the @@£$! The battery(s) are not totally dead or knackered, just.. dwindled is my guess. Maybe need replacing but no way to tell.


    Is there a battery charger available that i can connect to my rear battery in situ, that might give the battery enough of a charge to start / drive car out? I ask because pushing or pulling the car out of the garage is going to be very awkward, given that the nose of the car is outwards and the only space around the car is a tiny channel along driver side width, not even wide enough for anyone more than average build! Best i'll probably manage is inching the car forward a few inches so as to be able to open the bloody boot!


    Any suggestions to either problem (access to battery(s) and easiest way to give batteries a boost.. most welcome thanks guys!

  • Starting to think i should now park leaving the boot facing outwards.
    Never wanted to do this because the car has to actually touch the padded rear wall in order for the door to close, i figured it was better to nudge rear bumper every time i park, than the front end. But now the car is stuck fast i'm wishing i had access to the boot. :oops:

  • Charge batteries through engine compartments positive terminal and adjacent ground nut. Without mains in the near you can also try to jump start from there. My experience with jumpstarting through the engine compartment terminals is so so - with a flat battery you should charge through front terminals for a couple of minutes where the donor car is at elevated idle at the minimum.


    Cheers
    Reinhard

  • 900ss - thanks for reply, i don't have a charger :oops: :oops: but probably nipping out Saturday to get one!


    Reinhard, this is good because ..well because i didn't know i could charge via that terminal, thanks. :harhar:


    Was having doubts about jump starting because of dire warnings about frying ECU but i'll probably take a chance

  • As said in a previous post, yes, i have some expertise with a CTEK... I bought a XS-3600, but despite it had the required power to maintain both batteries at the same time, it was too tight... so, bought the XS-7000 and it is able to load and maintain both batteries ( 95Ah ) without troubles...


    Regarding repair... well, the chargers are not able to "repair" a battery when it had gone beyond its expected working time...

  • So this so called repair option.
    When does it work.
    Also I had this situation that on my car from standing over the summer the battery had cone completely empty.
    The ctek didnt even start to charge it.
    Also can you just connect the Ctek under the hood and charge both the batteries like you would be doing one?

  • Zitat von Fatandre;107845

    So this so called repair option.
    When does it work.
    Also I had this situation that on my car from standing over the summer the battery had cone completely empty.
    The ctek didnt even start to charge it.
    Also can you just connect the Ctek under the hood and charge both the batteries like you would be doing one?


    Mine has been able to fully reload some batteries after they discharged with no major issues... but it took some time.. ( almost a day ).
    Also, was able to "repair" some other ones, that were in working condition but "sulphated" ( if translates )... but some other ones it was unable as the battery was dead... ( the CTEK throws a red light after a while ).


    Regarding your last question... a photo taken just now...


  • Without mains power in your garage the best you can do to overcome longer periods of inactivity is disconnect both batteries at their common ground near the left tail light.
    A lead battery that has been deep discharged (say below 10V) is regularly a case for the recycling yard. Even though a pulse cycling charging device may reduce the amount of sulfation it will not be able to "'repair" the damage done. As a net result the battery will not have the specced Ah anymore and even just appear to hold charge but breaking down quickly.
    As a rule of thumb a deep discharged battery will only lead to trouble ;)
    Cheers
    Reinhard

  • Zitat von Fatandre;107845

    So this so called repair option. When does it work.

    Reconditioning can bring back some life in old batteries, but don't expect miracles. If the battery is too far gone, nothing will bring it back to life. You can use the reconditioning after a battery was discharged too far, but if this happens a few times just replace the battery. Lead acid batteries don't take deep discharges very well. It's better to prevent deep discharges by attaching the CTEK charger (in normal mode) each time you will not drive the car for more than a couple of days. That should maximize battery life.


    Zitat

    Also I had this situation that on my car from standing over the summer the battery had cone completely empty. The ctek didnt even start to charge it.

    Perhaps you did not switch on the charger? The CTEK MXS 10 charger has 5 modes: off, normal, AGM, reconditioning and supply. I forgot, but it's possible the charger starts up the first time in the off mode. You'll have to press the mode button (once) to switch to normal mode (car symbol). The next time you use the charger it will remember the last used mode and start up with it.

  • Zitat von Fatandre;107845

    So this so called repair option.
    When does it work.
    Also I had this situation that on my car from standing over the summer the battery had cone completely empty.
    The ctek didnt even start to charge it.


    If a battery reads zero volts the Ctek won't even know its connected so won't do anything, had this with someones battery last year. I have never seen a battery with a zero reading before so I thought it was a goner for sure, once charged it was ok and its still going.

    93 850 CSI
    hung like Einstein, clever as a horse

  • Zitat von shiggsy;107853

    If a battery reads zero volts the Ctek won't even know its connected so won't do anything, had this with someones battery last year. I have never seen a battery with a zero reading before so I thought it was a goner for sure, once charged it was ok and its still going.


    That might have been the reason.
    I had the receipt and got it replaced since it was only 1 year old.

  • I have the Ctek XS7000 too, had it for 4-5 years.
    I have the quick disconnect plug on my left battery though, works well.


    Reconditioning will help if you suffer from battery memory effect, however it's a greater chance one or more cells have shorted when a battery fail now a days.

    -Egil (thats my name)

    1990 850IA Hartge SC
    2012 M550d Touring

    If I misspelled a word it's because I'm Norwegian, so bear with me.

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