Yeah I was pretty pleased. It came off a late 96 840 so fingers crossed. At least it has the same number, which is the main point. The e38 ones seem to be going for around £80, so it seems logical that the e31 be double the price !! As usual....
Reinhard, are you suggesting that even with the same part number it may not work properly, or were you typing that reply before seeing post ? 
Hope it was the latter.... !
Zitat von Argonaut;62231Just small point to add Arnie, the M73 had DSC, my 1997 car has DSC.
Yes, I think it was an option on the e31. DSC is mentioned in the user manual, but I have not seen any 840Ci in the UK with DSC.
Zitat von ReinhardThere were M62 E38/39 that had ASC+T only (until 1998 ). In theory the unit will be the same as the one for the E31 M62.
Yes, I think that's true. Probably, using the eprom from the old ecu and transplanting it to the new one would solve any differnce in operation.
FAB just phoned me to say the ECU has a dent in it from the removal process 
I struggle to see how this happened since it is a piece of cake to extract. However, it is guarranteed for 3 months so I gotta take the chance that it works.... rocking horses don't poop on my doorstep very often 
Zitat von TallTony;62291FAB just phoned me to say the ECU has a dent in it from the removal process
I struggle to see how this happened since it is a piece of cake to extract. However, it is guarranteed for 3 months so I gotta take the chance that it works.... rocking horses don't poop on my doorstep very often
maybe they removed it from the houseing with an Axe?
Hopefully it'll be fine, maybe you can swap the innerds into your old housing?
well guys....
it's been 3 years and 2 months since my ABS and ASC lights first came on, which was only two months since I bought the car. I've had a new ECU and ECU plug (temporary fix for 6 months) and a new ABS pump from Sprucegoose (but didnt solve it), new Relays and thorough connectivity check on sensors etc (no joy). BBA Reman diagnosed my replacement ECU as internally corroded despite it showing no obvious sign on exterior, so I tried in vain to find another, only for you guys to help me (again) in the end.
On Tuesday the replacement ECU turned up from FABrecycling, and only 30 mins ago did I get round to fitting it ! Since I needed to charge the batteries first before I could even start the car.
Result 
Plugged ECU in, turned car on, lights OUT 
Warmed the car up, and went for a spin around the industrial estate (since it is currrently SORN'd), tested the ASC with a bit of heavy footedness and that works too. Lots of flashing
£150.00 inc VAT & Shipping.
Clearly I am a very happy man right now, and going to celebrate by getting some tax and Fully Comp INS and hopefully have a nice summer driving my car again !
Gonna seal this unit as best I can before securing it under the carpet to try and stop moisture getting in and corroding the innards since it seems to be an issue in my car.
I just hope (and pray) that this ECU will stand up and last the lifetime of the car, or at least another 50K miles or so.
Cheers fellas, I'm off to the pub 
congrats!
Glad to hear you got it sorted Tony, hopefully it will stay mended now 
Zitat von TallTony;62767.....Gonna seal this unit as best I can ....
If you take the cover off, you can spray the printed circuit with a clear lacquer. There are special "conformal coatings" specially made for this purpose, but you can equally use a can of clear spray lacquer. I've done this with other ECUs and it makes them waterproof, even if water should get in.
Anyway, very glad to hear you're system is OK again!
Tony pleased that finally you have solved your problem 
really hope you have a good summer in the car - hope you can get to Gaydon meet you there
So here is what the insides of a corroded ABS ASC brain look like. No wonder this particular unit failed 
Arnie, I am seriously comtemplating doing what you suggested !!
Hoping to make it to Gaydon this year as well.
Yes, it does look pretty bad. However, if the corrosion has not eaten through the copper tracks, then even this one might be recoverable to keep as a spare.
The problems are likely to be due to the encrusted corrosion visible between the pins of some of the chips.
The loose corrosion can be brushed off and, if you have access to one, the board can be dipped into an ultrasonic cleaning bath.
Then, the electrolytic capacitors should be changed as these can only be expected to last about 10 years before starting to go bad (and either leak or explode). In fact, looking at it again, there seems to be some corosion trails already comming from the capacitors!
Anyway, this would perhaps be more of a curiosity project to see if could be restored. But there would be no harm in water-proofing your new board.
Here is an example of a suitable coating:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=29005
Order Code: RE80B £5.49
...or for "tropical" applications, with fungicide:
http://www.wes.uk.com/009-0008%20Issue%209.PDF
Whereabouts is this offending module........preventative maintenance called for methinks
Cheers
Alex
A trip to Maplin it is then.......
The module is located in the passenger door sill. Take the carpet up and you will see three boxes, and the ASC ecu is the one nearest the wheel arch. It's a little tricky contorting both the carpet and yourself to extract it, but can be done.
In my case I suspect that a can of fizzy drink was spilt in that area and seeped through onto and into the ecu's plug. Since the area was bone dry with no sign of permanent moisture I think this is most likely, especially when you see the extent of corrosion, and the way there is a distinct moisture path shown by the corrosin residue in pic 2. As the unit sits vertically with the plug at the top then this dribble makes sense.
Those flimsy 'cupholders' on the glovebox lid are a prime suspect
Since you cannot guard against these acciddents it may well be a good preventative measure to seal the unit - they do cost over a grand from the $tealers 
I knew I shouldn't have tempted fate
lights didnt go out yesterday and I feared the module, after taking module out and finding it is in pristine condition and all the fuses related to abs are ok I'm stumped as to what to try next 
On a couple of starts since the lights stayed on, the lights were off but came on about 10mins later......any ideas ?
cheers
Alex
Zitat von Alex McDonald;63152Alles anzeigenI knew I shouldn't have tempted fate
lights didnt go out yesterday and I feared the module, after taking module out and finding it is in pristine condition and all the fuses related to abs are ok I'm stumped as to what to try next
On a couple of starts since the lights stayed on, the lights were off but came on about 10mins later......any ideas ?
cheers
Alex
Bloody Hell
I did wonder about your motives for this challenge, as I'm a firm believer of 'if it aint broke don't fix it' I'd bet you may have disturbed something whilst meddling so it's got to be worth pulling the carpets once more
If they go off after the ignition on self test but come on while moving I would suspect the wheel sensors.
Worth a reboot. My abs light came on recently after I'd let my batteries completely die. I fully charged my batteries and left them disconnected for a while and all is now good. For now....
The lights stayed on before I had a look @ the module, I'm a subscriber to the if it aint broke dont fix it motto, having said that I thought it worth a look due to the weather we have up here !
I'll check wheel sensors and do a reboot, thanks guys
Cheers
Alex
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